Appliance Repair Show Transcript - April 26, 2009

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Whirlpool Washing Machine, Model LA5200XTF0, Leaking Oil

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Any questions at all on a major appliance, we're happy to go to, and we'll get to it, we'll get to you, and we'll answer the question hopefully. And Jim, in Dexter, will find out about his Whirlpool washing machine here on the Appliance Repair Show as our first call. Good morning, Jim, go ahead.

 

JIM

Good morning. Thank you for taking my call.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, thanks for calling this morning, Jim.

 

JIM
Actually, I talked to you about this machine last week. You suggested that...it has an oil leak. I get oil in the wash water and you suggested that it was most likely a problem with the transmission (part # 3360629). And, I've decided I don't want to put the money into it to replace the transmission, but I did have a couple more questions. One is, why are they designed in such a way that the wash water and the, if it leaks from the tub (part # 63125) that it can go directly into the transmission and it can force oil back. It seems to me that it would be not too hard to put an air gap in there.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well there are seals at the top stem of that where the drive tube (part # 285792) comes up the transmission (part # 3360629). There are some small seals in there and over time sometimes they will fail.  And so then, as you pointed out, sometimes you get water that gets down there and then causes some pressure in the gearcase (part # 3360629) and forces some oil out. But, its like any mechanical thing where you're trying to separate two fluids, oil and water in this case, there is a set of seals in there, on occasion, they do fail. This is not a super common problem but it does occur.

 

JIM

Okay, it seemed to me, there must be some way where you could design it, especially if it leaked, it would just drip on the floor and the transmission and the tub (part # 3956207) wouldn't be right up against each other.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right, I agree whole heartedly and, unfortunately, I'm not an engineer and they don't listen sometimes, even to the service guys, but at times they do. There's times, they get the service people involved and look at it and say "what do you think?' And it's like you know now you have to take all this apart when before if you just took this one screw out we could access this component. Its basically it's a money versus longevity versus service ability. So, anything that they do, if they do something that costs, you know, ten cents to change on a unit times a million units that, over time, adds up to be a lot of money.  One of the guys that was in the space program said he's sitting on a machine that's thousands of parts that are all from the lowest bidder.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

That's not someplace I would want to sit.

 

JIM

Could you tell me are there any top loaders, aren't they susceptible to this problem?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

You know, the one that you have is a decent machine. And they still make that variation and you know, if you repair this one you have almost the same machine to go buy a new one so I wouldn't shy away from replacing from what you have actually but, you know, nothing lasts forever and I understand your concerns but no, there is no better mousetrap in that particular scenario and again any manufacturer that's over time and use there are things that crop up. 

 

JIM

All right. Thank you very much.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Thank you for calling this morning.

 

2000 Refrigerator Not Cooling Properly

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH 

Here's Wally, from Roseville, with a question on a refrigerator here on the Appliance Repair Show.  Hi Wally, go ahead.

 

WALLY

Hi, good morning. I have a temperamental refrigerator.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay.

 

WALLY
What it does...we bought it new about nine years ago. It'll run fine, I would say maybe during the course of the fifth year we started having this problem.  It will cool and keep stuff cold and all of a sudden it seems to lose the cooling in it and then it's just like warm. Our icemaker won't work.  We unplugged it. We will let it sit for a day. Plug it back in and then it'll cool everything fine and it's probably once a month that we have to do this and I'm just wondering if there's anything we can fix or...

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, from what you're describing this is both compartments go down, the refrigerator and freezer sections lose cooling?

 

WALLY

Correct.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And, if you shut it off and let it sit for a period of time it seems to fix itself?

 

WALLY

Right.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Basically, from what you're describing, you probably have a defrost system problem.  What happens is every six to eight hours the unit will shut off and defrost the coils of the back wall of the freezer section and when it doesn't do that over time that frost builds up to where the air flow does not go across that coil and blow into the refrigerator section and circulate through the freezer section. What happens is you gradually see a reduction and by then turning it off all you are doing is just manually defrosting it and putting it back into operation. When was the last time you turned it off?

 

WALLY

Probably three weeks go when we noticed it starting to go down again.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

If you remove the back wall of the freezer you'll probably see a frost build up.  And there are basically three components in the defrost system. There's a heater, thermostat or terminator, either a timer or a control that switches it into defrost and any one of those can be causing the problem.

 

WALLY

Is that fixable?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes, it's fixable. And, it's something if you don't want to get into, if you have a repair guy come out, you're probably looking at, depending on the component, what it is, between $100 and $200 for the repair. If it's only eight or nine years old it probably would be worth it.

 

WALLY

My wife is like bugging me to get a new one, "I never did like that refrigerator".

 

JOHN SOWDEN

No, I've never heard that.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

I never have either. You might want to write a book about that Wally. Nobody here at the station has ever heard that.

 

WALLY

All right, thank you very much.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Thanks for calling, Wally.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And, right back to the phone, but quickly we are going to talk about how to get a hold of RepairClinic.com when you can't reach us here because we're not here.  How do we do that?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, you can always log in to our website RepairClinic.com, 24 hours, seven days a week, and get all the help you need either finding appliance parts or answering questions about appliance repair. You can even go to the "Contact Us" section and ask a specific question and get a specific answer. You can visit our parts counter which is on Michigan Avenue in Canton, Michigan and it's from eight to six, seven days a week. And our phone center is open from 8:00 AM to midnight, seven days a week or if you don't want to do any of that you can log into RepairClinic.com and in the upper right hand corner, we have a thing that says "Online Chat" and you can ask your question about a part there. We do not give appliance advice as far as repair via the Live Chat. You'll have to go to the website for that.  If you have a quick question about a part or your order, something like that, and you don't want to pick up the phone you can simply log in and someone will answer your question that way.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

I had a nice call from a guy in Florida, while this week was progressing, and he wanted to thank me and you, especially, but he didn't know how to get a hold of you, for the help that you gave him on an air conditioning part clear down in Florida. He was listening online. He was just happier than a pig in mud. He was just really elated and he wanted me to pass that along to you so I'm doing that now.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, thank you. That's good.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Letting everyone know that if you're on the web and listening we don't care where you are as long as you're in the United States, you can call and we'll give you help.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That's correct.

 

2000 Maytag Dryer Squeaking at Start Up

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Steve in Shelby Twp, you're next, with a dryer question here on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead, Steve.

 

STEVE

Yes, my question is how do you replace the rear bearing on the drum in the back? When you first start it up it runs fine. After ten minutes it squeaks real bad and goes away.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, this is on a Maytag dryer?

 

STEVE

Yes, it is.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And how old is it?

 

STEVE

About nine years old.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Nine years old?

 

STEVE

Yes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, well if it's a Maytag dryer, nine years old, it probably doesn't have a rear bearing. It has two rollers that the drum rides on. And, the squeak can be coming from those rollers. It could be coming from the tension pulley for the belt or, at times, even the motor bearing itself will squeal upon start up and after it heats up a little bit it will correct itself.  The best thing to do is to get in there make a physical, manual inspection of it and see if you find any signs of wearing.  Normally, if the rollers are worn you'll see some discoloration and some metal shavings or things of that nature around those.  To do that you go through the front of the dryer, there are two screws at the front of the unit that you take off and the front comes off and you start working your way in. You can also go to the website, RepairClinic.com, and go to the "Contact Us" section, tell us what you have whatever and we also have some quick how-to disassemble type instructions you can print out.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Okay?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

All right?

 

Whirlpool Gas Range, Model SF387LEGN3, Smells of Gas and Will Not Ignite

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Well, evidently it was. Here's Rob, in Shelby Township, with a stove question here on the Appliance Repair Show. Hi Rob, go ahead.

 

ROB

John and John!

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes.

 

ROB

I've got a stove, it's a Whirlpool, and it's got the digital panel (part # 6610279) on it. When I try to go to turn the oven on this thing, all the doors are closed, after about five minutes I get a real strong odor of gas, but it does not ignite.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay.

 

ROB
Does that lead you to believe the igniters (part # 3186491) or gas valve (part # 3196891) or both?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

You set it to bake, the display works, it says 350, and it's trying to do what it's suppose to do or whatever you have it set on, correct?

 

ROB

Right, both the igniters glow real nice but it doesn't warm up. I just get good gas smell.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

There is no such thing as a good gas smell.

 

ROB
Exactly, I'm kind of thinking it might not be the best thing in the world.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

No, and that's, it's not an uncommon thing. What normally happens is over time that igniter (part # 3186491) becomes weak and it doesn't have a resistance drop through it when it heats up to allow the gas valve (part # 3196891) to open completely.

 

ROB

Oh, they do become weak then.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, just because its glowing bright orange doesn't mean that it's working properly. If you look at the valve itself, it'll normally have a rating stamp on it. Yours probably says 3.2 to 3.6 amps.  And what you have to have is that current draw in that circuit via the igniter to act on the small little heater inside the gas valve (part # 3196891) that actually warps and allows gas to come through so what happens is if the igniter isn't working properly you don't get the resistance drop through it when it heats up so the current is unable to work on the gas valve and then you get sometimes a sputtering of the gas coming out and its not enough to positively ignite it.  There are two ways to check it, one is to use an amp probe, or the like, and see what you're getting in that circuit. The other one is the odds are your igniter (part # 3186491) has had it and put a new igniter in and you'll probably be fine.

 

ROB

Fantastic!  I didn't want to throw a hundred and something dollar gas valve in it and find out...

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, most people think it's the gas valve because the igniter is glowing bright orange. If it's broken, it's easy to diagnose because you don't get that light. Most often, especially after several years, they get weak and it'll sit there and glow forever and not open. On occasion, the gas valve (part # 3196891) can stick and you can have other problems. To be sure, again, if you have the equipment to pull an amp draw on it and see what you have but otherwise, literally, eighty, ninety percent of the time it's going to be the igniter (part # 3186491) versus the gas valve.

 

ROB

Fantastic! Well, that's were I'm going to start then.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, thanks for calling this morning.

 

ROB

Have an excellent day, guys.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Appreciate the call. You guys had rain up there yesterday. It was beautiful and sunny here and not one drop of rain.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Oh, it was terrible.  My backyard's half flooded.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

That's Michigan.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

There you go.

 

2007 Whirlpool Duet Front Loading Washing Machine, Model WFW9200SQ00, Putting Oil Spots On Clothing and Noisy

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Here's Steve, in Waterford, with a Whirlpool Duet front washer question on the Appliance Repair Show. Hi Steve, go ahead.

 

STEVE

Good morning, gentlemen. I have a Whirlpool Duet that I purchased about a year and a half ago. It's a front loading washer and probably six months after purchasing this product I noticed oily spots on my clothes and I guess I didn't think much of it. Some time later, a couple months later, I noticed a noise coming from the back end of this thing. I'm not sure if it's the transmission or if there are bearings back there spinning the drum or what's happening and the noise has progressively gotten worse and I'm wondering what to do about this thing. As I said, it's a year and a half old and I'm a little disappointed with the performance from this machine.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Your machine is basically got a rear bearing assembly for the rear of the drum and then it's a belt (part # W10116915) driven unit on most of those. If you're getting residue in the tub (part # 8182232) and you're sure it's not from detergent because sometimes excess detergent use can give spots on the clothes. But if you're getting a loud noise, is it a bearing noise, a high pitched whine or something?

 

STEVE

It's not a high pitched whine, it's...

 

JOHN SOWDEN

...a growling?

 

STEVE

More of a grumbling, yes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, I would say that more than likely you probably have a rear bearing (part # 8182232) problem. Most often that's cured by replacing the back half of the tub which is not only, not inexpensive but it's fairly labor intensive.  What I would try before I opened the tool box (part # 54404) or did anything, get a hold of the manufacturer. You're out of warranty if it's a year and a half old, but at times, they may make a concession. I would always try the pick up the phone route first before calling for help.  But if you have someone come out and they need to replace the rear bearing assembly (part # 8182232) you're probably looking at a $300, $400 repair, maybe more.

 

STEVE

That's quite labor intensive, you say.  I mean, I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but I don't want to overtake, you know, get in over my head with something.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

You basically need to totally dismantle the unit, take out the tubs, and split the tub. If it comes apart nicely, pull the inner drum (part # 8182232) and spindle out and then put it into the new rear assembly. Yeah, its big time wrestling there with the washing machine.

 

STEVE

Yeah, I'm not looking forward to that. Do you have any idea if there is a history of this problem with these machines?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

No, that's something that, they haven't been out a long period of time, so its something that as time goes on, you see things fail more or less but no, bearing problems aren't something that I have seen a lot of in this particular unit. 

 

STEVE

What about Whirlpool's number? Do you have that readily available? I can get it on the Internet.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

I do not have it available.

 

STEVE

Okay, that helps. Thank you.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Sorry, I couldn't be more help actually, but the Internet is the place to go for those numbers and Google is one of the places that I always use.  I don't need a phone book anymore, got Google.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Saving paper, John.

 

GE Electric Range With Stains on the Inner Door Glass

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Here's Sharon, in Canton, with an electric stove question here on the Appliance Repair Stove. Hi Sharon, go ahead.

 

SHARON

Hello there. I have a GE electric stove and in the front of the door vents and I was very diligent one time and was cleaning up and I got water down through the vents to the glass of the door of the stove and so,

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And now you have stains on the inner side?

 

SHARON

Yeah, you know it just bothers me. Its there and I see some on the door, I see some like, you know, screws to take it apart to clean it but I'm kind of afraid to so I thought maybe I'd check with you first.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, the only way to clean it is to disassemble the oven door and get to the back side of that glass and clean it out.  Some of the doors come a part pretty easy.  You do, normally; the best way to do it is to take it off the hinges, so it depends on what style unit you have. A lot of times when you open the door to the broil position or it's open about four or five inches you can then lift straight up on the door and take it off but there are several style hinges they have out these days and some when you open to that position you need to put a pin in the door to lock the hinge in that position so that when you go to put it back in its that way. Some will have a retaining clip on the hinge and some do not have any at all and what happens is if you just pull that door off and you are suppose to keep it in the locked position getting it back on is going to be tough.  I've run across this many times and my advice to you is if you want to try and do this yourself that's fine. What I would do is the next time you have somebody out to service one of your appliances just add the oven on as a second appliance. Most often they will give you a break on that and what you can have the guy do is come in, take the door off, and take it apart to where you can get at that glass and clean it while he goes and works on whatever else that's really an issue as far as you know, stopping your everyday life, washing, drying, things of that nature, and then you can clean it, and he can put it back together and then that way you're safe because if you get in there and drop the door or something like that now you're looking at a piece of door glass which normally there a hundred bucks or more. It can be a pretty expensive problem if you mess it up, I guess.

 

SHARON

Okay. Well, I guess you've given me good advice.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, its one of those things that a lot of people will try to take it a part but then they end up destroying the hinges trying to get it back on. Again, I'd recommend, since its not hindering the operation of the unit. Its cosmetics and I know it bothers you because, as you said, you try to keep it clean, you clean the trim off and the vents and everything and now for all your effort you now have these streaks running down your door so I know its something that bothers you, but I would just wait until something else fails, you're having a guy come out and then that way if they break it they're responsible and you can still get it cleaned up at a reduced cost normally of what it would cost to just call a man out to do that specific task.

 

SHARON

Okay. Thank you very much. I appreciate it. Bye now.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Thank you for calling this morning.

 

1999 Magic Chef Top Mount Refrigerator, Model RB213AFM, Leaking From the Door

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Here's Chuck, in Taylor, with a refrigerator question on the Appliance Repair Show.  Hi Chuck, go ahead.

 

CHUCK

How's it going fellas?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

It's going all right.

 

CHUCK

I got a refrigerator, a Magic Chef that's, its not draining underneath my crispers (part # 61001477). It keeps filling up with water and I siphon it out and there were a few pieces of dirt in there and I cleaned it out and it just keeps filling back up every week or so and my wife's on my butt trying to get me to get a new one and I'm hoping you guys can save me from that.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

We've never heard that before.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

We're saving a lot of ...

 

JOHN SOWDEN

It's only been about fifteen minutes since we've heard that.  Well, depends what's going on with your refrigerator. This is freezer on top?

 

CHUCK

Yeah.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay and how old did you say it was? I'm sorry.

 

CHUCK

It's probably around ten years old.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, well a lot of times what happens is depending on the unit, the water will actually, sometimes its normal for it to drain down the back wall of the refrigerator and then underneath the crispers and if you pull the crisper drawers (part # 61001477) out you might find a small plug.

 

CHUCK

Yeah, I did that.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, and that's where the waters suppose to be draining from.  It goes to this holding area and then this little plug allows it to drain into the pan (part # 68236-1) underneath. There's normally a little tube (part # B5705307) that goes from that spigot where the drain holes at down to your drain and that's probably restricted so I would recommend taking a turkey baster (part # 19950151) with some tap, hot water and flushing that out and you'll probably have that cleared up.

 

CHUCK

Oh, so it's probably just plugged up in that hole.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yep, and that's why it's overfilling. Some machines there suppose to drain through a small tube (part # B5705307) underneath the freezer compartment and along the outer side of the refrigerator and if that was the case you would have another problem. From what you're describing on yours, a lot of times what'll happen is if it's in defrost you'll see, at times, water just a small little stream that will run right down the back wall and its suppose to gather underneath the crispers (part # 61001477) and drain through that little hole. That's what its there for.

 

CHUCK

Yeah, I pulled that plug out of there. There were a few pieces of dirt or whatever and I kind of just cleaned it out with my hand but I never, you know, did anything down inside of it. 

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yep, just flush it out and the water will go into the drain pan (part # 68236-1) underneath the unit and that should solve the thing. Was it just leaking right out the front of the door after time?

 

CHUCK

Yeah, after a while it just come out the front of the door and I'd clean it up and my wife would yell at me and I'd do it again and she'd yell at me.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

If you do this, you'll probably get some more mileage out of this. It's your choice whether you want to clean it out or go buy a new one. Whatever it takes to keep the peace I guess.

 

CHUCK

Well, I got my wife listening in the bedroom so I hope she hears this and I hope you guys set me in the right direction.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, it's the best I can do without being there but from what you're describing that's what I think you have going on is just that drain hole is just plugged up and if you clear that out you should stop the puddles in front of the refrigerator.

 

CHUCK

All right, thank you very much.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Thanks for calling.

 

2002 Stackable Asko Dryer Drum Not Turning

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Bringing harmony to otherwise unharmonious homes we are the Appliance Repair Show here on News Talk 760 WJR.  We'll go now to Mary, in Monroe, with a dryer belt question here on the Appliance Repair Show. Hi Mary, go ahead.

 

MARY

I have an Asko dryer which I've since May 2002 and really like it.  All the sudden the drum stopped rotating and I took the front panel out and I noticed the belt is broken.  It's a very narrow belt but it's not working so what would you suggest?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, you're probably going to have replace that drive belt for the drum and there's also a tensioner assembly that puts tension on that. That could have failed too or could be worn and that's why the belt has worn out and broken.  In that particular unit, you need to go through the back of the unit in order to access that so, you need to take all the screws around the perimeter out and then in the very center where the rear bearing of that drum comes through and you need to kind of work the back panel off that bearing assembly and then you can get into the motor and the drum.

 

MARY

Well, it's a stacking washer and dryer so I may, would you suggest I call an appliance repair man?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes, at this point, because they might have to take it down in order to get in there and do all this depending on where it's at house installed. The beauty of the stackable laundry stuff is you can put it in a nice closet and keep it out of the way and reduce space and the bad part is when its time to service it, its when the fun begins and you have to get in there.

 

MARY

Right, well we did have a 48 month warranty on it but since 2002 in May, its expired by now, so we did get an additional warranty but I'm not sure its still in effect.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

I would certainly call them and find out. I know with some of the Asko stuff they have a really good warranty and then if you call them or turn in your slip for your warranty registration a lot of times they'll actually add a year for you. They had that program going on a year or so ago.

 

MARY

I've been very happy with the appliance but now all of a sudden everything stopped.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

It won't turn without the belt in place. I'd definitely go looking into what the warranty you have is and you can even call them and ask them what they think and what they can do and they can also refer you to somebody who is authorized in your area to work on that which might speed things up a little bit.

 

MARY
Well, thank you very much.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Thank you very much.

 

MARY

I'll take care of that tomorrow morning.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Well, that was easy. Let's do another one.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

It was easy for you.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH
Let's do some more. It's all easy for me...And don't forget if for some reason you can't get through, RepairClinic.com's website, that's RepairClinic.com, open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

 

Whirlpool Window Air Conditioner, Model AC1002XS0, with Broken Selector Switch

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Here's Irv, in Toledo, with a window air conditioner question here on the Appliance Repair Show. Hi Irv, go ahead please.

 

IRV

Yes, good morning gentlemen.  I can barely hear you.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Well, we're sorry about that, but we're talking about as loud as we can.

 

IRV
Right, I have a Whirlpool 10,000 BTU window air conditioner. It's that time of the year to get them spruced up and in condition for the season.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, that's a good thing to always get started on that early.

 

IRV

Oh, absolutely.  I've got some CLR to take to the condenser (part # 949834) on the back of it.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay.

 

IRV

And clean that off.  I have a major problem though with the selector switch (part # 813585). The little stub that sticks out and the selector switch knob (part # 996647) slides onto has broken off. 

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay.

 

IRV

And, I'm thinking I'm going to have to look on your website for directions on how to replace that switch.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, the switch comes as a switch kit (part # 813585), for your particular unit, and what that means is the switch has a stem that you cut to size, so did you save the parts that broke off?

 

IRV

No, I did not.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, well you can still kind of guess-ti-mate or cut it a little bit longer and so what happens is you get a switch that has a stem that's an inch or two longer than it needs to be and then you break off the stem accordingly. They have a graduated stem on it. And what you want to do is grab a pair of pliers where you want to break it off and then grab it with another pair of pliers and snap it off before you put it in the switch (part # 813585) and make it work.

 

IRV

Oh, that'll be great.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

If you put it in the switch first and then try to snap it off without securing it at the break off point with another pair of pliers, you'll end up breaking it off flush with the switch and then you're back where you started.

 

IRV

Correct.  Now, the wires going into the back of the switch are those simply a plug-on wire?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yep, most of them have push-on terminals. You, normally, have depending on how many speeds you have on your AC motor (part # 4387301); you normally have between four and six wires. Most of those are pretty straight forward. You have your power coming in; your common, and then you'll have your high, medium, and low.  There might be some variation from the replacement switch (part # 813585) to yours, but basically a lot of the terminals are marked the same.

 

IRV

Absolutely, I appreciate that very much and I can imagine you are going to do part of a show on getting those air conditioners ready for the season.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yep, it's getting that time. Irv, the part you need is RepairClinic's item number 2408 (part # 813585) and you can call 1-888-34-FIXIT and somebody there can have that on it's to you, shipped to you if you wish.

 

IRV

Okay, that was 2408?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That is correct.

 

IRV

I'm visually impaired so I had to grab my marker pencil here.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay.

 

IRV

Okay, that's item 2408 (part # 813585). I thank you guys ever so much. I appreciate your show.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

We appreciate your listenership.

 

Maytag Electric Range, Model MER5730AAW, Not Heating Properly

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Thank you, Irv.  Gary, in Berkley, your next, here on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead please, Gary.

 

GARY

Hi, how are you guys doing?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

We're doing fine.

 

GARY

We've got a Maytag range.  When we turn on for pre-heat, we'll set it for 400, and after it dings it says it's ready, it only shows 350 and then we're also not sure...if you wait another five or ten minutes it'll get up to 400. But then, we're not sure after that if it even maintains the temperature during your cooking because we've tried to cook a pie and it didn't come out at all.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, that's, you know, a good point you make, a lot of times people are having a problems with the temperature in their stove. I always recommend that they use a thermometer (part # 19950054), an accurate one, to see what temperature you have. The easy way to do it is to simply take a box cake mix, follow the instructions, pre-heat the oven, do all that stuff and see how it comes out and if it comes out pretty well, your oven's probably doing all right, and if its not then you might have some temperature swing problems. Now you say when you set it at 400, you see it climb and then does the buzzer go off and beep at 350?

 

GARY
Right.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, and so it's not reaching that temperature before it's shutting off.  Do both the elements glow bright red on the oven floor and the oven ceiling, the bake (part # 74010750) and broil elements (part # 74003040)?

 

GARY

Yes, they do.  We put it on broil to get the top one on but I don't know if they're both supposed to come on during bake cycle or not.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes, they both come on intermittently during pre-heat for bake. So, they fire them both up to speed things along for the bake process.  So, set it to bake and see if the lower one glows bright red. If it's not getting hot, you've probably found your problem and that's the element could be bad.

 

GARY

It glows bright red.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

If it's not the case, if you're having temperature swing problems, there's a sensor (part # 12001656) in that oven. It looks like about half a pencil that sticks out the back wall. And there are normally a couple screws that hold it to the back wall and there's a small wiring harness behind it and you can slide that out and if you have an ohmmeter (part # DM10T) you can check it at room temperature or roughly 70 degrees and it should read between 1,000 and 1,100 ohms.

 

GARY

Yes, that checks out to 1,100.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So that's within tolerance? If you're still having issues with temperature swing, before I'd replace the circuit board (part # 12001628), I would get an oven thermometer (part # 19950054), and preferably a mercury style (part # ST04) or a digital style, you know, one that you'd use to, you know, to see if your meat's done or something. You can normally get those for twenty bucks at a home store.  If it's still out of tolerance then I'd replace the circuit board. Of course, make sure all of your wiring and stuff is correct from all the components, but if the sensor (part # 12001656) is within tolerance normally it's telling the board what to do and the board could be messed up.

 

GARY

I went and that's what I thought too and I went and I bought a board (part # 12001628) from you guys and brought it home and replaced it and then the same thing happened so I took it out and put the old one back in.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, but in the interim have you checked to see what the temperature is?

 

GARY

Yeah, I checked it during, you know, for, I checked it at pre-heat, and then five, ten minutes later then it would climb up the temperature, but then like I said...

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Did you do it with a separate thermometer (part # 199500540 that you put in the oven?

 

GARY

Yeah, I went and bought a thermometer and put it in the oven.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Good. Well, if you've changed the board and it's not curing the problem, the only other component that would do that is the oven sensor (part # 12001656) which it's checking good at room temperature. The only thing I can think of as it heats its not getting the resistance change that it should have at the different temperatures.  Its kind of an uncommon problem but that would be the next step that I would recommend is throw another sensor in there and see what happens.

 


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