Appliance Repair Show Transcript - April 19, 2009

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1996 Refrigerator Making Loud Noises

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

We'll start things out with a clunking refrigerator and Donna, in Harrisburg, on the Appliance Repair Show. Hi Donna, go ahead.

 

DONNA

Well, it's been doing it the last couple years.  I had a repair man out here from a reputable company and he said there isn't anything wrong with your refrigerator.  And I said "why does it make that noise?"  He says that these newer refrigerator's do that.  Well mine wasn't new at that time. It was nine years old, its now twelve years old. 

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, now it's making a noise?

 

DONNA

Yeah, like a clunk when it shuts off.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

When it shuts off?

 

DONNA

But not every time it shuts off.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay.

 

DONNA

In the morning, it's like every hour and then during the night time really morning hours it can wake you up.             

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, this isn't an uncommon condition.  What's happening more than likely is inside your compressor there's a motor and pump that circulates the refrigerant through the tubing to cool your refrigerator and that motor and pump is mounted on a set of springs inside that metal shell to help isolate it from shock when it starts up and shuts down.  If one of those springs is broken or cracked what happens is when it shuts off the inner portion of the compressor, the motor and pump assembly, will slap against the outer shell and it sounds like you're taking a hammer (part # 818-16) and just kind of hitting the side of the compressor there, kind of a metal sound. And, this is something; the only way to repair it is to replace the compressor which is expensive. And in a twelve year old unit probably wouldn't be worth it, but as you pointed out it can go for years like this. I've seen them go months, I've seen them go years but eventually what happens is it will slap against the outer shell and crack something in the pump or motor assembly and then make the unit not working.

 

DONNA

So that means that I can expect to get another refrigerator?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

You know eventually and if I could tell when I'd be picking the Lotto numbers, as far as the time frame goes.  I've seen them run for years like this.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Normally doesn't it usually stop operating when someone's on vacation?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Normally, it's as soon as you leave the house or go to the store and spend several hundreds of dollars on food. Those are the two perquisites of normally when they're going to quit.  As long as you keep an eye on it you may get several more years out of it but at some point most often what will happen is it'll shut down like that and hit the side wall...

 

DONNA

And everything in the refrigerator will be ruined?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That is correct.

 

DONNA
Well, thank you very much for your help.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Thank you for calling this morning.

 

Frigidaire Refrigerator Light Bulb Not Working After Being Replaced

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And here's a light bulb question in a refrigerator from Merle, in Fowlerville. Go ahead please, Merle.

 

MERLE

I have a Frigidaire freezer.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay.

 

MERLE

And the light bulb went out and I replaced the light bulb but the light never came back on again.

 

JOHN SOWDEN
Okay, well there are a few things that can cause this.  The first one is the switch in the door that's turning the light on and off could have failed especially if the other bulb grounded out or something. It could have caused the switch to be compromised.  The other thing that a lot of times on these, its hard to get the new light bulb, especially in an older machine, to get screwed in all the way into the base so that the bottom of the light bulb is making contact with the bottom of the socket. What you can do is, you can take and unplug the unit, look inside the socket. At times, you can see a little metal tab in the bottom of it, you can either gently bend that up a little bit or you can take a very, very thin film of Vaseline or something of that nature and put it on the threads of the bulb and then screw it in and a lot of times it will get you that extra turn to make contact in the bottom of the unit.  And of course, you certainly want to make sure the light bulb you have purchased is working so you might want to try that in a lamp or something else in the house. 

 

MERLE

Yeah.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So those are the two or three things to try and I'm sure one of those will work out for you.

 

MERLE

Okay, thank you very much.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

You're very welcome and thank you for the call.

 

2006 GE Dishwasher is Noisy during the Cycle

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Here's a call on a dishwasher from David, in Chesterfield, on the Appliance Repair Show. Hi David, go ahead.

 

DAVID

Good morning, how are you?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

I'm fine, thank you.

 

DAVID

I don't have the model number but it's a GE Clean Steel dishwasher that, it worked fine until after warranty and then the noise that it makes now, I don't know, its like a motor sound but its not a motor, it sounds like the arm that spins is vibrating with the water pressure and its quite loud so I didn't know if there was an easy fix?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. This is a newer unit then? It's two or three years old?

 

DAVID

About three.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. And the noise does it occur during the entire cycle, at certain portions of the cycle?

 

DAVID

Certain portions.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay.  Well, normally, a vibration sound is actually caused when the unit is filling and what happens is at times the water valve when it opens will not open all the way and it will shutter which then shutters the pipes and anything attached to the dishwasher and you can get a kind of low rumbling sound. Normally that occurs during the fill cycle.  Depending on what cycle you select, the unit will fill five to eight times through the cycle and normally between a minute and a minute and half per each fill. 

 

DAVID

Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So, the things you need to kind of do now is fire up the dishwasher and grab the newspaper and a chair and kind of monitor it and see as its going through the cycles when does this occur.  Is it when the unit is filling? Is it when it's draining?  If its draining it could be something caught in the drain pump?  It's a matter of nailing down a little more of the specifics of when this is occurring to get in the diagnostics but from what you're describing a hammering or rumbling sound it could come from anything that's moving in there but most often from what you're describing the water valve would be the culprit.

 

DAVID

And is that an easy switch? The water valve?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, most water valves depending on how it was installed and if the hot water shut off to your dishwasher will actually shut off, it's normally a straight forward do-it-yourselfer type job. Most the valves run between $30 and $60 and you can do it with basic hand tools.  But, I would just monitor it. If you notice it, it does it for a short period of time and it quits and then you hear the unit drain and then it starts it again, it's probably doing it when it fills and that would be the water inlet valve.

 

DAVID

Great! Thank you very much. And go Wings!

 

1997 GE Electric Range, Model JBP78AB1AA, Oven Temperature Fluctuates

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And, we go now to a question on an electric oven from Bill, in Forest Creek, here on the Appliance Repair Show. Good morning, Bill. Go ahead.

 

BILL

Good morning. I've got a GE smooth top electric range and it's about 12 years old and I gave the serial, the model number, do you have that there?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Certainly.

 

BILL
Okay, the cook top (part # WB62T10025) works good, you know, and when you turn it on broil, the broil unit (part # WB44T10009) glows red, that's working, but when you go to set the oven temperature it will indicate at like 250 or 300, it will indicate that its at the proper temperature, but if you go higher then that, it will go 10, 12, 15 minutes, it won't come on and either one of those temperatures the bottom, I don't think its heating up to the temperature that I set it at because I put a thermostat (part # WB50T10043) in there and at 300 and it wasn't even close to that but only, I noticed are both units suppose to operate in the oven settings?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes, if you select bake most often what will happen is the control board (part # WB50T10043) will cycle both the bake and broil element on at startup to help preheat the oven in a speedier amount of time.  After that it's normally maintained by the lower unit or the one on the oven floor which is the bake element (part # WB44T10011). Now when you set it to broil you say the broil element (part # WB44T10009) glows bright red?

 

BILL

Yes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. And when you set it to bake do you ever see the bake unit glowing bright red?

 

BILL

No, in fact I put my hand on it, its cold.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, that's a sure way to find out what's working or not, but I wouldn't recommend it.

 

BILL

The closer you get to it you can feel there's no heat coming from it.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So that's where your getting your temperature problems more than likely is that all you're getting is a preheat and a lot of times after that since it normally uses just the bake element (part # WB44T10011) to maintain it that's why you're getting the temperature swings and it won't get up to another temperature.  Most often, the bake element is the culprit causing that.

 

BILL

I pulled that out and I checked continuity wise, it checked out.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, so you checked it for continuity and did you check it against the outer shell or did you check it for a short?

 

BILL

No.  Check it, what do you do?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

One leads to the terminal and the other one to the shell and make sure it is not shorted to ground.

 

BILL

Oh, I see.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And when you checked this did you take the wires off the back of the element (part # WB44T10011)?

 

BILL

Yes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, good because you have to isolate the component.

 

BILL
I took both of them off.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. If the bake element (part # WB44T10011) is good and you are not getting it to burn your hand when you check it then you probably have a problem in the controls.  Most of them have a relay center on the main control board (part # WB50T10043) and it's telling it to turn the unit on and off and its possible that that relay is shot or the wiring from the board to the element itself is burnt or you have a break in it.  On a newer unit not so much, on older units sometimes you get some heat conditions, they'll get hot and burn.

 

BILL

You know my wife said a couple weeks ago she smelled something burning.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, it could actually be the control board itself. A lot of times if you take those out you can actually see on the back side if the relay is smoked. At times, you will see some burnt spots on the board.  The other thing you want to check is the oven sensor (part # WB23T10002) and those normally read about 1000-1100 ohms at room temperature but if it's broiling okay I doubt the sensor's bad but I'd check that just to make sure.  If not, then I'd lean more towards the main control board (part # WB50T10043) or the relay board depending on which one you have in your unit.

 

BILL

I'm looking at the schematic here and they're kind of piggy backed aren't they?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

A lot of them are. A lot of them, the main control board or the actual brain is actually mounted to the relay board so it tells the relay board time to send some current down to these elements and heat it up so either one, if its all in one, and if you've got power to it and the clock (part # WB50T10043) is on and its not registering, all the wiring is correct, the elements correct then the board is bad.

 

BILL

In other words, that board that is piggy backed to the main board would I look at the back of that or the main board?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Either or, probably the relay board itself, but you can't always tell by looking at it.  Some times you could have some burnt contacts in those little, normally have four or five little relays in a little black plastic covered box on there. One of them is set to; you know, bake and broil. Now one thing you can do to cheat it is if you reverse the bake and the broil and then set it to broil and then see if you get it to fire the element.  That's one way to check the wiring in there.

 

BILL

How would I reverse them?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Normally if you look at the board (part # WB50T10043), one of them is marked with BK for bake and BR for broil. They come right off that board?

 

BILL

Oh, I see...I'm looking at them now. Now I can switch them and then if that was in the relay then I would just reverse the situation in there?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes,  check the print and make sure that there picking up the other leg at the same spot but that's one way you can cheat, if the unit is wired to allow you to do that, but otherwise if you're not getting the current to the element when you select bake, the oven sensor (part # WB23T10002) is okay, the board's bad.

 

BILL

The oven sensor where would that be?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That is a small looking part that is normally mounted in the upper right or left hand corner of the oven.  It's about the size of a pencil cut in half. It's a little, normally, a metal rod that sticks out with a couple of screws that retain it. You can normally pull that through the oven cavity, unplug it and check it with an ohmmeter. And normally you're looking at 1000-1100 ohms.

 

BILL

Now we're checking it for continuity?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Exactly, but what happens is the control board (part # WB50T10043) sends a small voltage through that while you're baking and what voltage comes back to the control board is what's telling the board what temperature it is, so as the heat changes in your oven the resistance in that sensor (part # WB23T10002) changes and then the board knows I'm sending four volts out here, I'm getting 3.5 back that means it must be 300 in the oven. And those are all guessing relative terms there.

 

BILL

The way you said, I described before everything operating the way it was. You said you didn't think it was the sensor probably.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

No, but I would check it just in case because some times they can become intermittent and open up at times, so I would check that. Make sure that's okay before ordering a board (part # WB50T10043) because most of those can get pretty expensive.

 

BILL

Oh, you mean the board?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

The circuit board, yes.

 

BILL

What would you say in the neighborhood...?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Most are between $150 and $300. What we are going to need is the model number complete as it reads off your unit and not off the brochure or the print and they can give you an exact price at RepairClinic.com.

 

BILL

You would check that lower element (part # WB44T10011) to ground.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes, I would check that to ground because if it is grounded it could have shorted out that relay. You put a new board in, now you've taken out the board (part # WB50T10043) because you've got a grounded element.

 

BILL

Okay, so I would, do I have to, and I don't unplug it do I?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

The same as you did originally, yes.  Power off, just as you checked it for continuity just check it to the shell.  It doesn't happen very often but if it's shorted it can ruin a new board.

 

BILL

Okay. Thank you very much.

 

1994 Maytag Top Loading Washing Machine Leaking Water From Underneath & Squealing

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And, we'll go now to Shelly, in Ashtabula, Ohio, with a question on a Maytag washer here on the Appliance Repair Show.  Hi Shelly, go ahead.

 

SHELLY

Good morning!  I just went over the longest covered bridge in the whole U.S., its right here in Ashtabula, Ohio.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

I see. And you're getting cell reception through the bridge?

 

SHELLY

Oh, sure. I have a Maytag top loading washer. It's about 15 years old and recently it started to trickle water out from underneath it. It's down in the basement by the drain.  It's making a squeal like [demonstrating squeaking noise]. Kind of like that but it still washes clothes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

It squeaks during the spin cycle?

 

SHELLY

No, when it's washing; when it's on its regular wash cycle. So, I was at Lowe's the other day and the guy said "you have to buy a whole new washer, it's no good, and the motor's shot. We have these nice washers over here". And I'm like okay, I'll think about it.  "Should I just call the Maytag man?" He said, "That Maytag has been bought out by Whirlpool there are no more Maytag's any more and you might have a hard time getting parts for it". It's probably better that I just buy a new one?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Whirlpool acquired Maytag a few years ago, that is correct. Most parts for the machines are still readily available even going back to the 30 and 40 year old Maytag's.  Not all but most.  If it's squeaking all the time it could be in the motor assembly. Most often the squeaking is going to come from the bearing assembly in the tub and that would normally occur in the spin cycle.  Now the water leaking, you could have a situation where the water leaking is leaking onto something else and causing the unit to squeal.

 

SHELLY

Wow!

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, the other thing is that the pump itself could be leaking and the bearing in the pump could have failed so that's why you're getting the noise and normally if the washer is running the pump is turning.

 

SHELLY

Pretty wild! There are all kinds of things.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

There are a whole host of things it could be.

 

SHELLY

Yeah! See I'm a nurse and I'm thinking wow, you know, it's like the body. One thing can lead to another.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

This could be as simple as an office call or it could be major surgery. It just really depends on what you find out.  With your particular unit, there are normally two screws at the bottom of the front panel. If you remove those and lift up on the bottom of the front panel you can then see inside the machine. It might be very obvious at that point where the water is coming from.  If you don't see it readily from there, then you might want to look at the underside of the machine.  You need to be careful because you need to tip it back.

 

SHELLY

I think I'm going to be calling the Maytag man.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right, but if it's a pump, you know, normally, for a hundred bucks or so you're back in business. If it's a bearing or a motor or something then you could be two or 300 hundred dollars into the repair and then...

 

SHELLY

Then I might as well just go buy a new one for 440 some dollars.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, it depends on, obviously, your current situation.  I know that new appliances right now like automobiles, there are a lot of good deals out there that can be had. They're trying to move some inventory. If that was the case, if it's half the cost or more, you say the units how old again?

 

SHELLY

It's about 15 or 16.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

It's got some miles on it. But you know, to have a guy come out, most service calls are between $40 and $60 to have somebody come out and diagnosis it. It might be worth them at least to look the thing over. And, then from there if it's something you don't want to repair you might find somebody who either does want it or you can donate it or something of that nature. Or, you can just haul it away while they...

 

SHELLY

Well, they said they would haul it away for $69 so haul it away and when they haul it away they give me my $69 back somehow, I don't know how. Anyway, I think I'm just going to go fishing today.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That sounds like a winner.

 

SHELLY

Well, thanks a lot for all your time.  I appreciate it.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, thank you for calling.

 

SHELLY
Awesome show!  I listen to you all the time.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Have a great day and catch some fish. 

 

1993 Kenmore Electric Range, 790.9462990, Not Heating Higher than the Set Temperature

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

We go now to Bob, in Sterling Heights, with another electric stove question here on the Appliance Repair Show. Hi Bob, go ahead please. 

 

BOB

Hi.  I've got a stove I bought second hand like in '90. I think it says built in '93.  Anyway, the oven's having a problem getting too hot. You set the thermostat (part # 5303934039) or the controller and then you know everything gets cooked real fast in there.  That's about all I know. I haven't put a thermometer (part # 19950054) in there or anything to check the temperature versus what it says on the dial.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

All right, so you're kind of burning everything?

 

BOB

Right, everything cooks too fast, so I assume it's getting too hot, you know, heating up past the temperature I have it set at.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, the first thing you want to make sure is that both the bake and broil elements are working. So, if you set it to bake is the lower one glowing after several minutes and broil the same thing so at least you know the elements are firing properly. From there, yours does have a thermostat (part # 5303934039) versus a control board so that's what basically controls the oven temperature. I would recommend, as you suggested, putting in an oven thermometer (part # 19950054) and seeing what temperature you have.  There are a lot of different variations of oven thermostats (part # 5303934039). You can get the kind of cheap dial style, the little small ones you see, those are okay but sometimes they're not the most accurate. You might want to go with a mercury thermometer (part # 19950054) or a lot of times you can get a cooking thermometer that will, you know, go up to 350 or so between $10 and $30 at a home store or something like that. So you know that you're fairly accurate in what you're comparing it against. If the unit is normally 20, 30, 40 degrees off, at times, you can remove the oven thermostat knob (part # 3201567) and calibrate the temp on the knob.

 

BOB

Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Some of them will have where you can actually adjust the dial against the knob and kind of cheat it into getting the oven temperature to work.

 

BOB

I don't think that one does. I think it fits into the slot, you know.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right. Some of them still do but if you pull off and look at the back side you can at least get an idea. That's one option. If not, at times, they will have a small screw in the stem of the thermostat (part # 5303934039) that's a calibration screw.  If it's way out of whack you can try calibrating it but most often it doesn't take or if it does it's not for very long. What you're looking for is you want to set it in there, set it to 350, and watch the unit cycle. Normally, it will cycle a little erratic the first two or three times so they normally recommend you throw the first two or three times out as far as the temperature swing goes. When you set to 350, what you're looking for it to do roughly is cycle up to a high point of around 375. It will cycle off, go back down to around 325 and then cycle back on. So what you're keeping is an average temperature of 350 degrees in your oven.

 

BOB

Oh.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And, if it's off by twenty-five either way on average, that's still considered normal within the toleration of the components normally put in the unit. So, if you set it at 350, it keeps 325 most manufacturers do not consider that an issue because most the time your cake or whatever your cooking will come out fine. It's not to far out of whack. If it's way beyond those tolerances you might want to look at replacing the thermostat control (part # 5303934039).

 

BOB

Okay, yeah, because this way, I mean, I don't know what the temperature is but its way hotter than it was suppose to be. Stuff is getting done real fast.  Okay, so the oven thermostat. Is that expensive?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, most often those are pretty expensive. The one for your unit, according to what I can see, is about $160 which isn't actually too bad considering some of them go for a hundred bucks more than that. It's kind of a basic do-it-yourselfer job. Most of the time there's just four or five wires on these. Yours is a fairly simple unit. One thing you want to make sure is that when you replace it, you want to make sure you feed that sensing bulb in the oven cavity properly and you do not break the small copper wire that attaches the sensing bulb to the thermostat because you break that its time for a new one again.

 

BOB

In this thing was built, according to the tag in '93, so I don't know if it's worth spending money on or not?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, I don't know what you paid for it. You said you bought it used.  I can tell you that this is probably one of the big ticket items as far as your unit goes so with a new thermostat (part # 5303934039) in there you might, at times, have to put some surface burners or stuff in there, but as long as the cavity's all right, its not beat up, the door glass is okay, all that good stuff this would be your biggest expense in repairing it.

 

BOB

Okay, great. Thanks so much.

 

1999 Maytag Washing Machine, Model LAT9356AAE, Not Agitating Well & Loud in the Spin Cycle

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And, Dan in Ypsilanti has a Maytag washing machine question here on the Appliance Repair Show. Hi Dan, go ahead.

 

DAN

Good morning.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Good morning

 

DAN

I have called in before on this.  We had a problem with the water level (part # 22001775). It was coming up over the top and I replaced a part and, of course, the inside got washed real good from that, all the water and now I'm wondering if something else has gone with it. There are a couple of things. One, it doesn't seem like it agitates very well.  I took the front off and watched it as it was running and played around with the motor (part # 12002353) a little bit and I could slide the motor a little and it would wash better. You could see during the agitation cycle or the wash cycle it was moving a lot better.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right.

 

DAN
So, I'm a carpenter and I thought I can fix this. I put a little piece of wood in there to hold the motor at that point.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Oh, not good.

 

DAN

Well, it agitated real well but it didn't drain after that.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah.  The unit you have is the motor (part # 12002353) is mounted on a carriage with rollers and springs (part # 205000). That actually acts as your clutch, so when the unit starts up you've got the motor turning at 1500, 1600 RPM's and the transmission pulley (part # 22002429) at zero. Something has to give and that's what it is.  As the unit gets up to speed and starts agitating then those springs and that carriage will slowly pull back and engage it all the way. Now, it's the same thing with the spin cycle. The actual belts on those machines, they're actually designed to slip at start up and they will slowly grab so you might have burnt the belts off or compromised it by locking it into place because they are actually made to turn real slow until it gets up to speed. How old is this machine?

 

DAN

I am guessing about ten years old.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

All right and you have it in your basement?

 

DAN

Yes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

All right, here's the deal on the agitation. Now what you've done is you've just increased pressure on the motor belt drive system to engage the transmission (part # 6-2097750) with a little more force.  And, that it could be caused from just needing to replace the spring and roller assembly (part # 205000) on the motor (part # 12002353) carriage.

 

DAN

That is what the motor is mounted to?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That is correct.  And a lot of times what happens on these especially, that is why I asked if it is in the basement, its sitting on a cold basement floor and the transmission (part # 6-2097750) fluid actually gets thick with the temperature, just like your car does in the winter when its trying to start, and a lot of times you'll find that the second or third load it will actually start agitating a lot better as things get moving and that transmission oil (part # 350572) thins out a little bit due to the heat. So, you might want to just observe it and see does that happen? If so, the only way to really solve that is to move the washing machine or tear apart the transmission and rebuild it and/or change the fluid in there because a lot of times it just kind of gets thick and gummed up after ten years of wear.

 

DAN

Well, I have taken this thing all apart. I don't think the Maytag repairman is the loneliest guy in town anymore. I have gotten several parts from you guys on this. I don't think I have done anything with the transmission (part # 6-2097750) before. Another thing this does in the spin cycle, it sounds like its going to lift off the floor practically. It'll really get humming. Could that be part of the same thing, the transmission?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, most the time the loud noise in the spin is going to be caused from the tub bearing (part # 6-2040130) being worn. Now when you say you've torn this apart have you taken the inner (part # 22001139) and outer tubs (part # 22001114) out of the machine? 

 

DAN

Yes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. Did you replace the motor seal or the tub seal (part # 6-2095720), I'm sorry?

 

DAN

Gosh, this has been a few years ago, I do not remember for sure.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

You don't always have to but, normally, in an older unit if you take the inner tub (part # 22001139) out and you break the stem, the tub seal part, it's better to replace it. And a lot times what happens is you get a small leak and it will leak into the tub bearing assembly (part # 6-2040130) over time and then that's where it sounds like a jet engine when it's taking off.  If that's the case, you're looking at a new tub bearing (part # 6-2040130) and tub seal (part # 6-2095720) which it about a 100 bucks in parts but since you're so good at taking this thing a part, you know the labor portion of it, what the cost is. But as far as the agitation goes, another way to cheat that is to when you go to do your first load of laundry just fill it up with all hot water and let it agitate for ten or twenty minutes and then come downstairs and hopefully the water will be cool enough then to put in your warm load of laundry so you don't shrink anything and see if that picks it up.  And, all you're doing is just adding a bunch of heat via the water through the transmission (part # 6-2097750) and sometimes that'll help pick it up. So there's ways to get around it. You can just try changing the spring and roller kit. They're pretty inexpensive and see if that helps.  But, yeah, locking it in with a piece of wood, you're not allowing it to clutch properly or work properly and that can cause other issues.

 

DAN

So you said a spring and roller kit?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yep. The part number you're looking for is a 205000.

 

DAN

Okay. Thank you very much.

 

2004 Kenmore Front Loading Washing Machine Thumping in the Spin Cycle

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

We'll go to Lee in Saline on the Appliance Repair Show. Hi Lee, go ahead.

 

LEE

Good morning. I've got a Sears Kenmore front load washer we bought about five years ago and we started noticing a few weeks ago on the spin cycle you hear it thumping a little bit and then we noticed plastic around the edge of the stainless steel tub coming out and pieces of plastic.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Around the tub itself?

 

LEE

Yeah, you know the inner tub, the part that rotates and then there's an outside tub that's made out of plastic and it's coming out from the front edge of that.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, so it's beating around pretty good then.

 

LEE

Yes, it started beating and we tried using it on low speed spin and it still shakes a lot and that plastic is coming out of there.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, I wouldn't use it any longer until you get it straightened around. From what you're describing, the machine sits on a kind of a shock system and its possible one, if not two of those shocks is worn out and it's causing it to beat itself in high speed spin. And then what you're doing is you're beating that plastic outer tank against the metal frame and you're probably chipping off some of the outer tub which may or may not have damaged anything. Sometimes you can break some pieces off and it's not that big deal.

 

LEE

Yeah, it looks like the edge, it isn't leaking or anything, but it's just that plastic around that edge started coming out in curved sections and I then I took a good close look at it and seen more were in the laundry.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, I'd call for service on this one, Lee.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Thanks for the call, Lee. Wish we had more time, but we don't.

 

 


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