Appliance Repair Show Transcript - June 8, 2008

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1998 Kenmore 80 Series Heavy Duty Gas Dryer Tumbles But Doesn't Heat

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And we'll start things off with a dryer question from Vic, in Belleville, on the Appliance Repair Show. Good morning, Vic, go ahead please.

 

VIC

I got a ten year old Kenmore 80 Series Heavy Duty dryer and it quit heating all at once.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. Is this gas or electric?

 

VIC

Gas.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. So it tumbles but it does not heat?

 

VIC

No. It tumbles but it does not heat. The burner isn't coming on.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Have you had a chance to observe the burner assembly while it's running?

 

VIC

No.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. Well, some of them have a lower panel that you can remove on the front panel; it's about six inches long. On others there will be a little hole in the front panel with a plastic cover on it that you can pop out and actually look in there and see what's going on. There are three basic components that are for the burner assembly, and those are the igniter and what they call the light sensor, and then the coils on the gas valve. Those are the three components that could be failing for you. You can check if you pop it open when it's running; make sure that you have it set to heat, so somebody doesn't come in and press the "air fluff" button on you, which happens from time to time. If you don't see the igniter glowing, you either have a broken igniter, or on some units (it depends on your particular unit) they also have a thermal fuse that's mounted on the back blower assembly that could have tripped. If that's the case, then you want to start looking at your vent and how long it is and how dirty it is. That's something you should do anyway while you're servicing the dryer.

 

VIC

All right. I disconnected the vent hose from it and tried that, but it still didn't work.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right.

 

VIC

And there's a little plastic, clear plastic cup that goes into the vent housing, and I broke the little cap off on the bottom of that. It's a flapper . . .

 

JOHN SOWDEN

On the outside of the unit?

 

VIC

On the inside, in the back.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And this is part of your household venting?

 

VIC

No. It goes outside.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right but the part that's broken is the part that attaches to the dryer?

 

VIC

Yeah, it's got a little hose that goes on it, and then it's got a little flapper that goes up and closes it. It closes the little hole.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right.

 

VIC

Okay and that is twisted into the vent housing, about center ways down.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

On your vent itself?

 

VIC

Yeah.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So it's one of those diverters, so you can vent it indoors if you want.

 

VIC

Is that what it is?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, and that's not a good thing to have on a gas dryer. Electric dryers, its okay but you've got some combustible gas there that you need to vent all the way outside. With some of the electric dryers, people use those to help heat their basement in the winter; but most of the time all you do is just blow a lot of dust around. So, you might want to just cut that out of the system and just go with a straight vent outside. But the first thing you need to do is look at the unit when it's running and observe the burner assembly. If you see the igniter glowing and shutting off several times and it's not starting, then you need to replace the gas valve coil set. If you don't see anything happening, you either have a broken igniter, or the gas valve assembly itself isn't getting any power to it because the thermal fuse has tripped. So it's kind of a process-of-elimination observation.

 

VIC

Okay. Where's the thermal fuse?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Most of them are located on the back of the unit. You have to take about a half dozen screws off the back panel and then you'll see the blower housing assembly and it's normally mounted down at the base of it. If you get the model number as it reads off the dryer itself, and go to our website, RepairClinic.com and put the model number in, you'll see a picture of all the common parts for your unit, and that might help you identify the components so you know which one you're hunting for.

 

VIC

Okay. But I don't need that clear plastic cup at all?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

I think I'm sure of what you're speaking of. If it's one of those in-line diverters that they have in your vent, then no, you don't need the plastic cup. I'd say get rid of that one if it's not a component of the dryer itself.

 

VIC

Okay. Thank you very much. I enjoy your show.

 

1992 Sub Zero Side by Side Refrigerator Not Producing Ice

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Here with a question on a Sub Zero side by side refrigerator, Nathema from West Bloomfield. Welcome!

 

NATHEMA

Thank you, I love your show. I listen to it every Sunday.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, thank you for listening.

 

NATHEMA

I have a Sub Zero, a big one.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

I haven't seen many little ones!

 

NATHEMA

Yeah. It's over fifteen years old, and it was in excellent condition and working. We have not used it because the house has been for sale for three years. For now I have a tenant and they started using it, and apparently there's no ice coming out. They hear the click that when the ice is coming to form, but there's nothing coming out. I was wondering, somebody told me maybe the water hose that comes to the refrigerator, that there's some ice in it or its frozen. I don't know what to do. I have to probably call the serviceman because I have an appliance contract that doesn't cover Sub Zero's.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That doesn't cover Sub Zero's? That's why you have to pay attention when you buy a home warranty. Make sure that they cover the appliances that you own.

 

NATHEMA

Well, I found out later.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Now, is it cooling okay otherwise?

 

NATHEMA

Everything is okay, except the ice. The ice maker is not . . .there is the noise for when the ice is coming to drop in the drawer.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So you hear the little buzz every so often?

 

NATHEMA

Yeah. But there is no ice coming out.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Now, did you turn off the water to this when you had it turned off?

 

NATHEMA

Well, we had been repairing the house. They took both of them off the harness and had them cleaned and brought them back because we were having renovations in the house.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right. Are you sure that they hooked it back up to the water supply?

 

NATHEMA

I am not mechanical, I don't know . . .

 

JOHN SOWDEN

They could have just put the refrigerator back in place and it's not hooked to the water supply to feed the ice maker. The sound you hear is the ice maker water valve trying to send water to the ice maker, and you're not getting water. Which is either, as somebody told you, either a frozen fill tube or a broken water line in the system, possibly a water valve or in your particular case, since the unit was moved off premises and then re-installed, it might just not be hooked up to water. So, I would have somebody come out, at least look it over and see if they in fact did run the water line back to the refrigerator. It could be something pretty straightforward. My point is that there might not be anything wrong at all with your refrigerator—it could be that they just didn't hook up the water.

 

NATHEMA

Yes, because it's working. The freezer is working, there's nothing wrong with it. The refrigerator is working but the freezer, as I said, it's cooling but it's not making the ice

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah. Obviously I don't know how your home is laid out, but normally the water line will run through the floor and hook up somewhere in the basement and if your kitchen is over a basement or crawl space, you might want to take a peek and see where the water line comes through; if in fact it's hooked up, make sure they turn the water on to it. So I would start at square one, which is the water supply to the unit. From there, if you do have water to it, then you have a problem with the ice maker water valve, more than likely.

 

NATHEMA

Mm-hmm.  I hope it's not a major thing. 

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And so do I.

 

NATHEMA

Thank you very much.

 

How to Safely Transport and Store a Refrigerator

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Here with a question on transporting a refrigerator, Mike, in Farmington, on the Appliance Repair Show. Mike, go ahead please.

 

MIKE

I'd like to know if you can transport a refrigerator laying down rather than standing up?  Also, when it's stored in the garage over the winter, is that okay?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes, it's okay to store it outside in the winter. If you have an ice maker in the unit you want to make sure you drain the water lines so they don't freeze. As far as laying it down, when you lay a refrigerator down, there's oil that sits in the bottom of the compressor that lubricates it; when you lay it down the oil from the compressor runs out into the tubing in the refrigeration system. So if you were to stand it back up and plug it right back in, you're running the compressor without any oil in it, which is similar to taking the hood off your car and taking the valve covers off and letting it run in a rainstorm. It's not a very good thing! So if you do lay it down, I would recommend you stand it back up again for at least twenty-four hours, a couple days if you can, and let that oil migrate back to where it's supposed to be in the compressor.  With that said, on occasion the oil runs out there and it won't all go back to the compressor. It can constrict some of the refrigerant lines because there are some small refrigerant lines in the system. That's not a very common situation but if you do transport it, set it upright for a couple of days and then plug it in. If it still doesn't cool, you probably have caused an oil restriction but most of the time, by following the guidelines, you'll be all right.

 

MIKE

Okay. When I transport it, I am going to take it up north and it will be about a four hour ride—so the fact that it's about four hours, the same thing applies, just like what you said?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes. It doesn't take long for it to run out, but it does take a while to migrate back in, especially with jostling around. That's just the safest way to do it. A lot of times people will transport them and go home and plug it in and all of a sudden it's time for a new compressor. So it should be all right if you stand it back up and just let it sit for a while.

 

MIKE

Okay. Thank you.

 

Central Air Conditioner Unit Has Mold on Electronic Air Cleaner Fins and Filter

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Doug, in Dundee, has a question on central air on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead please, Doug.

 

DOUG

I have a unit, the air handler's in the attic, and I've got the insulated flexible ducts that run everywhere to the register, which is in the ceiling.  I've had maintenance on it, cleaned the filters, and I noticed I had, it looked almost like mold, on my electronic air cleaner fins and some on the filter. It had a stink to it, like a musty, moldy stink. So I left the air cleaner out because I really couldn't clean it up that good. Anyway, I cleaned the filters, put it back in, fired it back up and man, I've got some real stench coming out of the registers!

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Now you've got the air handler in the attic. Normally, they have a pan that sits underneath it that the condensate drains into and then it will drip out the side of the house or however they installed it.  If the drain is plugged you're going to hold a lot of water in that area and cause a lot of mold and bacteria and sludge, for lack of better words, in that. So I would start by checking the drain for your air handler and make sure that it's clear.

 

DOUG

Yes, I believe that's what happened, sir. I haven't actually checked it, but that's what I think the problem is. It's been hot so I haven't been able to get up in there.  I guess my question is, what would you recommend for cleaning the whole system back up, some type of fungicide in a fogger?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, you need to definitely try to get all that mold and stuff out of the ductwork. You might want to look into having somebody come out and clean the vents for you. There are a lot of companies that now do that, and they have the equipment to access all of this and clean it out; plus, they'll be the ones in that attic when it's one hundred and forty degrees and not you!

 

DOUG

Well, that's all right. I don't mind doing it but I just wondered if you had a product that you recommend to fog with. Because I did order a fogger, so I was just making sure of a product to use.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

You can try those, and if it works, that's great. But if it's something that needs to be scrubbed out of there, then you have to go with the duct cleaning, something that will get in there and clean it out otherwise.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

They'll drill a hole in the ductwork and put these little balls in there that vibrate and knock all the stuff loose and suck it out with a great big suction machine.

 

DOUG

But as far as the soft duct, could they do something like that?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

No, that probably wouldn't work. You've got the flexible ones, like plastic, with the insulation wrapped around it?

 

DOUG

That's correct. So it looks like a great big octopus in your ceiling.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes!

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Those are nice.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

They're not much fun to work on, John. So anyways, you can try something and see how it works. Otherwise, again it depends on how bad it is; if all the ducts are compromised then you might have to get somebody to go in and clean it all out.  Or, again, get up there and disconnect the runs from the air handler, and if they're pretty clean then you might be able to get in there and scrub it out.

 

DOUG

Okay. Thank you very much.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Have you ever heard of a chemical called Oxine?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

No.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

They use it in metal ducts after they're done cleaning.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

It's a sanitizer?

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Yeah. It keeps the stuff from coming back, supposedly. I don't know. I don't think it's available to consumers, though.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, it could be one of those professional-grade things.

 

1988 Maytag Washing Machine, Model A612, Not Advancing to Rinse Cycle

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Here from West Bloomfield, a Maytag washer with a rinse problem, from Wendell, on the Appliance Repair Show. Good morning, sir! Go ahead please.

 

WENDELL

Hello? Yeah, this is Wendell. I have a Maytag washer; it's twenty years old. It's a model A612 and it goes through the wash cycle fine. The water comes in it, it agitates, and the water goes out. But when it gets to the rinse point, the water won't come in.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay.

 

WENDELL

I can hear the timer (part # 206225) or whatever's back there making a little noise.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So it just sits there?

 

WENDELL

And then it stops.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

How that particular unit works is, you can select your water temperatures, but almost all the time it's using a cold water rinse. So if you're not getting any cold water to the machine, then it's never going to advance because it won't advance until the water pressure switch (part # 22206223) is satisfied. So, I would start by making sure that the cold water, where it's hooked up to the water inlet valve (part # 205613) on the back of your washing machine, and make sure that's not plugged up.

 

WENDELL

Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

If you've got good water pressure to the valve, then you either have a problem with the water valve (part # 205613) itself, as in it has failed electrically, or it could be that the timer (part # 206225) is not sending power to the cold water solenoid for rinse.

 

WENDELL

Oh!

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Normally, it's a cold water supply problem that would stop it like that in the rinse cycle because it has to fill with cold water before it continues on. So the easiest thing to do is just check, undo the hoses (part # 202860) at the back of the machine, and make sure you have good water pressure for your hot and your cold. If that's the case, then you have to work inward in your washer, with the water valve (part # 205613) more than likely being the culprit in this case.

 

WENDELL

So you think it's the cold water valve, is that what you just said?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes. It's either not getting water to it because it's plugged up, or the valve (part # 205613) has failed electrically and it's not opening when it's time to bring cold water in. When you set it for regular wash, it works because you're getting hot and cold water so instead of getting warm, you're probably getting only hot water coming in.

 

WENDELL

Okay.  I'll try that. Thank you.

 

Kenmore Side by Side Refrigerator Cooling Intermittently

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And we'll go to Romulus for another question on a side by side refrigerator. Here's Susan on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead please, Susan.

 

SUSAN

Hi. I have a Kenmore side by side and it sometimes cools and sometimes doesn't cool. I found when it is not cooling, if I play with the control knob, sometimes I can get it working. One time it wouldn't work, so I tapped underneath the control knob and it started working.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So, when you say it's not cooling, you're talking about the refrigerator and freezer both are failing?

 

SUSAN

Yes, both.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And you say by tapping on the controls, sometimes you can get it to work and sometimes you can't?

 

SUSAN

No. If I play with them, sometimes it will work and sometimes it won't but if I tap underneath, on the plastic underneath the control knob, it will start working.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

When it's not working properly, do you hear any abnormal noises? Any buzzing or things of that nature?

 

SUSAN

No.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. Well obviously you have an intermittent problem here, and you have to tap on it to get it working again. So, what I would suspect from what you're telling me is that the thermostat, or the cold control, is intermittent. Meaning sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't; it just sticks in the off position and then when you jar it, the control will then switch back on. 

 

SUSAN

Uh-huh.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Now if it were making noise, then I would think that the components that start the compressor are themselves intermittent, where the relay is getting stuck or the potential relay isn't working all the time.  So if it's kind of dead, where you hear nothing, then I would lean more towards the thermostat, which is the component behind the knob that you're tapping on.

 

SUSAN

Oh, okay! Thank you.

 

1998 Maytag Dishwasher Fills with Water But Won't Wash

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And from Roseville, a question, from Kurt, on a Maytag dishwasher, here on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead please, Kurt.

 

KURT

Actually, the dishwasher will fill up with water but it won't wash. I can move the timer to get the water out and it will drain the water, but the agitators won't move. So, I'm kind of wondering why the motor would drain the water but not wash the dishes?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Now this is a Maytag dishwasher?

 

KURT

Yes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And how old is it?

 

KURT

It's only like ten years old at best.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. Well, you say it fills up and then you have no wash, but then it will drain?

 

KURT

Yes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. Well, there are two things that could cause this situation, depending on the model of the unit you have.  Some will have a separate drain pump, so you have one motor to circulate the water through the tub, and then another one to drain it out. So if one motor has failed, it would cause it to not wash but then still drain. You have two separate components.

 

KURT

Uh-huh.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Others use one motor, and the motor reverses to drain. So it turns one direction to wash, and then it turns the other direction to drain.

 

KURT

I see.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So, it's possible that you could have an open motor winding for it turning one direction, and yet the motor is fine electrically when you reverse it. So it really depends on the unit. If you open up the door, get the model number off the unit and go to our website, RepairClinic.com and put the model number in, you'll see a picture of all the common components for that, and it will give you an idea of what you're looking at, if you've got just one motor or—

 

KURT

Well, I'm pretty sure the machine has just one motor.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

In the center?

 

KURT

Yes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

On occasion the timer can cause that problem if the motor windings check okay. All the timer does when it goes to wash to drain is it just reverses the hot and neutral.

 

KURT

Kind of reverses polarity?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Exactly. So the timer will then reverse the polarity, as you stated, and then the motor will turn in the other direction. At times, the contacts in the timer can get stuck or messed up and it won't reverse it. So again, it could be the timer as well.

 

KURT

Well, the thing is I did replace the timer.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Oh, okay. Well, I know what it's not:  it's not your timer! That's a logical conclusion as well, but you could have a bad winding. You can normally check those with an open one.

 

KURT

You know, I did! Because there's four leads coming out, and there's one lead that seems to have no continuity with the other leads.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right. That could be the ground, which would be a good thing if it doesn't have continuity because you don't want it shorted to ground but it depends on the wiring on your unit. Normally on those units, the wiring diagram is either on the control panel, or if you take the front panel off it will be on there.

 

KURT

Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And you can go from there and look at the motor windings, and then go with the color code. From here to here is your start; from here to here is your run winding. And again, on occasion some of them will have a relay that's incorporated in there that can cause it not to work as well but normally, if it's working for one, it should work for the other.

 

KURT

Right.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So I'd lean more towards a motor problem or even a broken wire somewhere, which does occur.  Especially as you open and close the door on the dishwashers, on occasion you'll get a wire that will break, and unfortunately they break internally where it's not really visible to you. Again, you have to check those with an ohmmeter (part # DM10T) and make sure you have a complete path from the timer to the motor

 

KURT

Yes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So you've got to roll up your sleeves and get the meter (part # DM10T) out and find out what's going wrong.

 

KURT

You got it! Thanks a lot.

 

2005 Kenmore Electric Dryer with an E1 Error Code

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Here with a problem with a Kenmore electric dryer, Pat, in Davison, on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead please, Pat.

 

PAT

Okay. My Kenmore Elite dryer, it's an under-counter model with a lint filter in the door. When I was turning it on for the full cycle, after five or ten minutes it would stop and I'm concerned about this code that came up; it says E1 on one side, and then it says, "Clean lint screen". Well, the lint screen is clean, so I removed the hose from the dryer that vents through the wall to the outside from the dryer, looked in there and didn't see anything clogged up.  I ran a couple cycles of the dryer and it did not stop. So I'm assuming there's probably something between the wall and the outside, which I can't see myself from the wall, or from the outside. So, I'm wondering if there's an easier way to get to that whole vent line to clean it or to check it? That's number one. And number two, I'm concerned about that E1 code because it seems like the dryer overheats. I don't know if that model gets really hot. I was never able to touch the top of it before because it was under a counter. So I'm concerned about the code, but then also I'm wondering about checking out the vent system.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, the E1, depending on the model of the unit and who built it being a Kenmore, it could be one of several manufacturers that produce that dryer.  Is this a newer unit?

 

PAT

It's about two and a half years old.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah. An E1 on several of the manufacturer's models is telling you that you have a thermistor failure, which is a component that senses the moisture in the drum, or that you've had an overheat condition, which would go hand in hand with your plugged vent. So an E1 could be basically telling you have an airflow problem, or that it's sensing an airflow problem; which could mean that the sensor is bad, if it's not an airflow problem, or that you've got an issue with your venting. Now, every home is different, so I don't know exactly, without being there, what to tell you as far as how to access your vent. They do make flexible brushes (part # 18001034) that you can take and run it up through the venting system and clean that out.

 

PAT

Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Some go up the wall and straight out; I've seen them that vent across the attic and up through the roof and all kinds of stuff.  So the longer the vent, normally the less efficiency you're going to get out of your dryer, as well as an increased likelihood to collect lint. 

 

PAT

Okay. So if we clean out the vent, then you said the other possibility is a thermistor problem?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That is correct.

 

PAT

Is that something that's easy to replace?  I'd have to get a repair person, probably.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Most of the thermistors are mounted on the blower housing. As far as how hard it is to replace, that would depend on your capabilities as a mechanic I guess. But most of the time, the sensors involve a few screws and a couple of wires that plug on to them. As long as you unplug the unit and take your time you can't get into too much trouble.

 

PAT

So the thermistor is actually a sensor?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That is correct.

 

PAT

So it's not very big?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Most of them are about the size of a quarter. It's normally mounted in the blower housing. Again, it depends on your unit as far as its actual location. All it does is, it senses the moisture going across it. That's what they use to shut off the dryer on a lot of the newer machines. When you select "more dry" or "less dry" and things of that nature, the circuit board is monitoring that thermistor and it's monitoring the moisture going across it and temperature. So if there are any problems, it will tell you through an error code. Otherwise, if it's working properly, it will say, "okay, the clothes seem pretty dry, so I'm going to shut off now."

 

PAT

Okay. So the fact that my dryer did work a full cycle without the hose being connected . . .

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Tells me your problem is more than likely in the vent.

 

PAT

Okay, great!  Thank you so much, I appreciate your help.

 

2001 Maytag Neptune Dryer Making Intermittent Squealing and Grinding Noise

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Mike, in Ann Arbor, has a dryer problem, here on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead please, Mike.

 

MIKE

Good morning. I have a front-loader Maytag Neptune washer and dryer and a couple of weeks ago we started hearing a squealing noise in the dryer and it seems to be getting worse. It's almost intermittent actually. It will go on for a little while, and it's a squealing, grinding metal-ish noise. After the dryer has been running a little while, sometimes it will go away, and then it will come back. It sounds like something that's guiding the drum in the dryer. I'm assuming that.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, the dryer has a set of glides that it rides on in the front.

 

MIKE

Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

They're basically plastic pads with a cork pad underneath. It's possible those are worn out and the drum is dragging on that. Also, there are other components that can cause noise:  the rear rollers or at times the pulley that puts tension on the belt can get worn and make some noise, and as the dryer heats up sometimes it will quit. So, I would start with one of the easier ways to see if it's the front glides:  open the door, grab a flashlight and look inside where the drum goes against the front bulkhead. If you see a lot of debris or black specks, things of that nature, then I would lean towards the front glides on the unit.

 

MIKE

Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

While you're in there, it wouldn't hurt to just replace the components that are wearing for that machine.

 

MIKE

I was going to say, I think we purchased those machines in '01, so they're not brand new. I think they're one of the first models of those Neptunes that came out.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right.

 

MIKE

And it gets used quite a bit. 

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right. And again, while you're in there, you can just put a new set of rollers on it and a new tension pulley and belt, the front glides, so all the stuff that turns with the dryer is now replaced and hopefully you won't have to crack it open again.

 

MIKE

I do have one quick question for you. I was looking at it, to try to access the internal parts and with the old dryers, you take the back panel off and you can get into everything . . .

 

JOHN SOWDEN

No, you go through the front on this particular dryer.

 

MIKE

Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And some of those you do have to remove the door and the door hinges first and then pop the front panel off.

 

MIKE

Okay, very good. Yeah, I didn't even look. I saw two bolts on the deck lid behind the control panel. I thought maybe that was the approach I needed to take:  get the top off and then access it down through the top. But you're saying there are bolts in the front by the door?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right. The front panel kicks off.  If you have any other problems, just go to our website, RepairClinic.com, and type in "Dryer Help" and it will take you to our dryer help page. If you have any specific questions beyond that, you can log in with your email address and ask our Repair Gurus who are standing by to answer your questions via our email system.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And you can get an answer in just a couple of days at the most!

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Depending on our volume of questions, obviously.

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