Appliance Repair Show Transcript - May 25, 2008

sebestadesign.com requires at least version 7 of Flash. Please update your client.

Topics Discussed:

 

2004 Whirlpool Gas Dryer Tumbles But Heats Intermittently

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Right now we've got a problem with a Whirlpool dryer that shuts off from Chuck, in Milan, on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead please, Chuck.

 

CHUCK

So yeah, the dryer starts up from cold, and then it will shut off after a while, and then if you let it sit for a long time it will start up and the burners will go and everything and then it shuts off after about ten minutes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

When it shuts off, if you go to immediately restart it, what happens?

 

CHUCK

Everything works, but the burners don't kick in.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. So when you say it shuts off, is it the motor that's shutting off? The dryer doesn't tumble, or it doesn't heat?

 

CHUCK

No, it's just the gas stops going. So the tumbler goes, the fan's going and everything, but it just doesn't restart.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So it's the heat portion that shuts off?

 

CHUCK

Correct.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. But the dryer does tumble and all the other good stuff?

 

CHUCK

Yeah. And I've had it apart and I've cleaned everything, but it still does it.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, most often, from what you're describing, the problem is the gas valve has a set of solenoid coils mounted on the top of it, that are actuated electrically and they open up the gas flow through the valve.  What happens is it's a solenoid, so it's really just a wrap of really, really fine copper wire:  it's an electromagnet.  So what happens is, they work fine the first cycle or two, and then as they heat up, that small wrap of copper wire actually breaks or expands and then you have an open circuit, so it won't heat. So then by letting it sit and cool down, it will actually conform back and make a connection. So the gas valve is normally what drops out and causes this situation and they'll work fine the first couple times.

 

CHUCK

Yeah. Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

If you are looking for a coil set, depending on the age of the dryer...

 

CHUCK

It's about four years old.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. Those are fairly straightforward to replace. There are just two plugs that mount to the coils.  One has three wires and one has two wires, and there are just two screws that hold down a hood that hold the solenoids in place. So it's really a straightforward job, you can't mess it up because only one will accept it.

 

CHUCK

Am I opening up the gas system then?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

No, you don't have to do anything with the gas. This is an electrical component.  There's actually, it looks like two spools of thread is what they look like as far as size, and there's just a steel post that they mount on, so once you take the two screws that retain them, with the hood off it, you can then slide each one off and replace them that way.

 

CHUCK

Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

The coil sets are around twenty to thirty bucks. If you get the model number as it reads off the dryer itself, on your unit it's probably around the door somewhere.

 

CHUCK

The door. Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Go to our website RepairClinic.com and put the model number in the search box, you'll see a picture of not only the coil set but all the other common parts for your unit and we're open today!

 

CHUCK

All right. Thanks a lot.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Now I would assume John, that the RepairClinic.com folks are going to be taking Memorial Day off. But I'm not going to assume anything!

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That is correct.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Oh you are?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

So for one day, tomorrow, Monday, you will be closed.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That is correct. We're only closed a few days a year these days.

 

Frigidaire Crown Super Washing Machine - How to Change Belt and Tensioner

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Let's go to Lynne, in Painesville, Ohio, with a problem with a Frigidaire, on the Appliance Repair Show.

 

LYNNE

I'm a mechanic and I can't figure out how to put a belt in it.  It's a tensioner on a Frigidaire Crown Super washing machine. It looks like I'm going to have to dismantle about three quarters of the machine, and I can't believe that's necessary, just to change the belt.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

On this particular unit, you want to replace the belt and the tensioner. The tensioner is mounted underneath the motor, and you do have to take the bracket that retains the motor off. And, if you go to our website and you type in "Washer Help" or actually you can type in "Washer Belt Diagram" or "Washer Help" and we have a series of pictures that show the routing on a lot of the belts for the washers and dryers. But yes, I do believe on this unit you have to pop the pump off and then take the motor off because it sits up underneath the motor pulley.

 

LYNNE

Yes. So you have to work from the bottom of the washer?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

No, there should be two screws at the base of the front panel, that if you remove those the front panel will come off. 

 

LYNNE

Uh-huh.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And then you can get at it that way. That's what you want to do.

 

LYNNE

Okay. And then you probably just tip it over half way so you can look underneath it, because you're working from the bottom, it looks like.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, actually the belt on that one should be in the top part of the unit.

 

LYNNE

Well, I don't know...

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Get the front panel off it and it will probably become a lot clearer to you.

 

LYNNE

So you type in "Washer Belt", or how do you do that?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Go to RepairClinic.com. And, you can just type in "Washer Help" and it will take you to our washer help page and you'll see that we have a lot of pictorial diagrams on different washing machines and their components and where they go.

 

LYNNE

Okay. Thank you very much.

 

Maytag Washing Machine Motor Runs But Doesn't Agitate or Spin

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

We go now to Eli, in Southfield, for a question on the Appliance Repair Show.  Go ahead please, Eli.

 

ELI

I'm calling about a Maytag washing machine that seems to fill up properly with water, but it doesn't agitate and it doesn't spin, but the motor sound is audible and the timing mechanism seems to be working as well. 

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So it goes and fills up, and then you hear the motor turn on like it's supposed to spin and agitate, but then nothing mechanically is happening?

 

ELI

Right.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. Well, most often that is a sign of a broken end or worn belt.  What's happening is the motor is running, but it's not driving the transmission.

 

ELI

Uh-huh.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

On that unit, if you're looking at the front of the machine, there are two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Once you remove those and lift slightly up on the bottom of the panel, you can gain access inside the machine. The belts on this one are actually underneath it, but there's a belt guard that's on the front panel, so it's a lot easier to get to it if you remove the front panel first.  The belts on this particular unit are the easiest ones to change in the industry. The motor is on a spring-loaded carriage, so it's just a matter of taking the old ones off and putting the new ones on. You can do it in five minutes or less.  If you slightly tilt the washer back you'll probably see where one of the belts is laying on the floor underneath it.

 

ELI

I see. So it wouldn't have anything to do with the lid switch wiring?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, if the motor is running, then electrically the unit should be working properly.  If you tell me it fills up and you hear the motor turning and nothing's happening, then electrically everything's in place telling the motor to agitate and run, but the problem is that there's something in the drive train and the link between the motor and the transmission is the belt. So I would lean more towards the belt on this issue.

 

ELI

I see. You provide on your website step-by-step instructions how to do it?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Actually if you go to the "Washer Help" page, just go to our website and type in "Washer Help" you'll see Maytag washer pictorial drawings, and if you mouse over it, as you mouse over it all the appropriate parts will jump out at you a little bit. And if you log in and give us your email address, it will take you to another section of our website where you can either ask a specific question, or there are also other documents there that have more specific instructions on specific jobs.  But this is a pretty easy do-it-yourselfer project. I recommend replacing both the belts at the same time. They might look like they're really, really loose, and that is correct, they're made to be that way.  The motor is on a spring loaded carriage that acts as a clutch, so these belts are designed to slip on startup. And then as the motor and the transmission start turning more at the same speed it will gauge more. So the belts, you can't just go to the hardware store and buy a belt of the same size, because you'll burn it off probably during the first load because these belts are made to slip. The other thing you want to inspect while you're in there is the motor pulley, because if the pulley is split, cracked, or otherwise rusted, worn, it will not engage the belt properly and it will cause this situation.

 

ELI

I see. Is it hard to take off the belt?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

No. It's just a matter of literally removing the front panel, first unplugging the machine, obviously, and then you can just tilt it back a little bit, and they're both right underneath the appliance. The pump belt runs along the front of the machine and the drive belt runs from the center of the machine to the motor.  Really after you get it tilted back there's no other tools required, you just grab it and pull it off. And the new one goes the same way.

 

ELI

And you put it on the same way. Okay, thanks!

 

1992 GE Side by Side Refrigerator Running All the Time; Freezer Works But Refrigerator Section Not Cooling Well 

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And here's Catherine, from Lake Orion, with a refrigerator question on the Appliance Repair Show. Good morning Catherine, go ahead please.

 

CATHERINE

Good morning. I have a GE side by side refrigerator, and I just found the manual on it, and we purchased it in 1992, so it's getting up there in age.  The freezer is working, that's nice and cold, but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be.  It's cool and its running; the motor is running constantly.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So, you have okay freezer temperatures and your refrigerator is kind of limping a bit.

 

CATHERINE

Yes, that's right.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And the condenser coil on this, the coils that are underneath the machine, when's the last time you cleaned those?

 

CATHERINE

Probably six months ago. I have a special brush (part #5303318693) that I get under there.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Very good!

 

CATHERINE

I'm cleaning the coils, but I'm wondering is there a condenser behind the coils? Is there something I should be cleaning besides the coil?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

No. Normally if you just remove the front panel and grab your vacuum cleaner and the hose attachment (part #8171579) and the special brush (part #5303318693) you described and get in there, clean those out, that's really all you normally have to do.

 

CATHERINE

Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Now, there's a fan motor also that runs to help cool that condenser.  Is that working? Can you hear a fan? Normally, you can feel a really slight breeze from the underside of the unit.

 

CATHERINE

I haven't taken that part off in the front to check that.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, you wouldn't even have to take off the grille.  If you hear it running...now you say you hear the compressor running as well?

 

CATHERINE

Well, it's loud. I don't know if it's the compressor, but I can hear it at the other end of the house!

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. Well then, it's probably the compressor running.

 

CATHERINE

Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

The reason why the compressor is loud could be that a lot of times you have a situation where one side is working okay and the other side is not. That's an airflow issue, where you're not getting enough cold air from the freezer section into the refrigerator section to help cool it.

 

CATHERINE

I see.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That can be caused by improper control settings. There's also on some units a damper assembly that's basically a gateway for airflow and it's monitored by a sensor or a thermostat that opens and closes.  But the most common problem with a refrigerator that's fifteen years old, with what you describe, is a defrost problem. What happens is, that coil in the freezer ices and frosts over and no air is able to pass through it, so no air can be blown into the refrigerator section and normally a defrost system failure is a failure of generally three components, which are the defrost heaters, the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.  In some units, especially the newer ones, have a circuit board that initiates the defrost, but it sounds to me like you might have a problem with the defrost system. If you open up the freezer door, do you see any frost buildup on the back wall?

 

CATHERINE

Let me check.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Well, that's the best way to do it, I guess.  Unless it's at the other end of a ten thousand square foot home!

 

CATHERINE

I do see a little bit back there.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, if it's starting to frost on the back panel, then it's probably been broken for a couple of weeks or more.

 

CATHERINE

Yeah, I think it has been running...I didn't really pay a lot of attention, but then I thought, oh! I think I've heard that running for a long time!

 

JOHN SOWDEN

It continues to run and run because it's not satisfying the thermostat in your refrigerator section, saying okay it's cold enough, let's turn off. And the noise you might hear is the compressor laboring from one, running all the time and two, once that coil ices over, it's possible to start running liquid refrigerant back to the compressor, and the compressor is designed to compress a gas, not a liquid, so it will make some unruly sounds.  Easiest thing to do, well not easy exactly, but you need to remove the back wall of that freezer section and get back there and inspect it.  If it's all frosted over, you know you have a bad component in your defrost system.  You can check those with an ohmmeter (part #DM10T) if you have one; you can also, if you don't want to get into all that, have somebody come out and do this for you.  Or, you can replace all the components in the defrost system and kind of carpet bomb the problem and go from there.  But to get you going in the meantime, you need to defrost it; normally once you completely defrost it, you'll get another four to eight days out of it before it starts to conk out again.

 

CATHERINE

Oh, I see!

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So with this being a holiday weekend and a lot of people being off of work, it might be hard to get someone to come out. The other thing you can do is, if you have an alternate refrigerator, just simply unplug this one until it can be fixed.

 

CATHERINE

Yes, we do.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Now when you unplug it, there's a pan that catches the moisture when it defrosts on a normal operation, but because you have so much in there it's possible that you might get some water in the floor where it's starting to overflow.

 

CATHERINE

Yeah, I thought about that too.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Keep an eye on it and take a sponge and soak up some of the water as you go.

 

CATHERINE

Well, with the age of the appliance I wondered if it was even worth it to do anything with it?  Should we just bite the bullet and buy a new one?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

First of all, it's fairly common for a fifteen year old unit to have something of this nature go wrong. If you have somebody come out and repair this for you, you're probably looking at between a hundred and fifty and a two hundred dollar repair. Is everything else okay as far as the door gaskets and such?

 

CATHERINE

It seems to be. It's been a good refrigerator for all these years.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, a brand new one would probably be a little more energy efficient, but for a few hundred bucks to put this one back in operation, it's probably worth doing.

 

CATHERINE

Okay. Well thank you very much. You've been real helpful.

 

2004 LG Dryer, Model DLG2532W, Takes Too Long to Dry & Noisy Throughout the Cycle

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Let's go to Marcus, in Toledo, with a dryer question here on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead please, Marcus.

 

MARCUS

I guess I wanted to tell you first, I stumbled across RepairClinic.com just on a Google search and love this site. I have used it once before and had great success in repairing a dishwasher. So now I have an LG dryer DLG2532W I think. I'm in the car now so I don't know if that's the exact model number, but it has been not drying as well as it used to for about the last maybe year or so.  It's taken a lot longer to get the clothes dry.  But now as of this past week it started making some horrendous noise through out the whole cycle.  What we notice is when the drum would stop moving the noise would continue for a short time. I'm suspecting the blower fan (part # 5835EL1002A) and wanted to get your feelings on that.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So after the dryer stops, you kind of hear a "slap-slap-slap"?

 

MARCUS

It's like a grinding type vibration noise.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, it's probably, as you describe, the blower wheel (part # 5835EL1002A) could be stripped out.  Or, if you're missing any change or any other items in your clothing, they can get in there and break the plastic off on that.  So, it's quite possible your suspicion is correct on that one.  That would also indicate the longer dry times, because what happens if the blower wheel (part # 5835EL1002A) is broken or stripped out then it's not turning in sync with the revolutions of the motor (part # 4681EL1008A). So, the motor's turning but this is just kind of sitting on it and spinning.  The other thing I would always recommend is certainly get in there and clean out the dryer vents

 

MARCUS

I appreciate that. Just yesterday I had the whole thing apart and I went to your site and there was something about not shipping until Tuesday. I wasn't in a big hurry, but I had it apart and that answers the next part of this question.  That fan (part # 5835EL1002A) was loose on the shaft.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes.

 

MARCUS

So it would spin free, and I wanted to find out if that was supposed to be locked in place with the motor (part # 4681EL1008A)?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes, it screws onto the motor shaft, and when you turn it you should not have any slack in that.

 

MARCUS

Okay, then that's definitely my problem. Now your website has the whole blower assembly. So you don't just buy the fan, you buy the whole assembly, is that what I understand?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

I've got your model up here, and I don't see the blower.  Did you use the website or did you call us? 

 

MARCUS

No, on the website, under dryers, I put in the model number, and clicked on blowers and fans. It gave me one of the options, there wasn't a picture for it, but it said a blower assembly (part # 5835EL1002A) was available for thirty bucks I think.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, that's probably the blower wheel (part # 5835EL1002A). If you want to confirm that you can always just give us a call as well.  If we don't have a picture of it then it's not a very common problem, because normally everything that comes in our door we take it's picture.  And so by not having a picture of it, you're probably breaking ground here as far as a broken blower wheel (part # 5835EL1002A) goes. But the other thing is that these units haven't been in the field for very long, either. 

 

MARCUS

Yeah, this is a four year old dryer. 

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right. So you got one of the early releases.

 

MARCUS

Early failure. All right, thank you very much!

 

JOHN SOWDEN

We can certainly get you the parts. If you want to make sure that you're getting the right thing you can always call our 888 number, which is 1-888-343-4948.  

 

GE Electric Stove Pre-Heat Signal Goes Off Before Oven Reaches Correct Temperature

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right now, we're going to go to Virginia in Clinton Township.

 

VIRGINIA

Yes. I have a GE oven, a stove with an oven. You turn the temperature on say three hundred and the buzzer will go off way ahead of time.  And so you have to put a thermometer (part # 19950054) in there and keep peeking to see when it's heated.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. So you have an oven and you set it to...I take it that you have a circuit board or a clock on this with a display?

 

VIRGINIA

Yes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And you set it to 350 degrees, let's say, and then what happens?

 

VIRGINIA

It might go off at 150. The buzzer will go off, but I know that it isn't up to temperature. So I put a thermometer (part # 19950054) in the oven and then I keep watching it to see if it gets up to temperature, which it eventually does. 

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. Is this gas or electric?

 

VIRGINIA

It's electric.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

All right. Well, normally from what you're describing, I would suspect the oven sensor. What the oven sensor does is as the oven heats up, the oven sensor actually changes the resistance and tells the circuit board, by the resistance of it, what the temperature should be and if that sensor has failed or is out of calibration, then it might be giving the board a false reading.  The sensor is a little probe that's normally mounted in the back of the oven; it looks like half a pencil sticking out of your back wall. If you remove that, obviously after turning off the power, you can check that with an ohmmeter (part # DM10T).  Most at room temperature will read between a thousand and eleven hundred ohms of resistance. As the temperature changes, so does the resistance, so you have to check it at room temperature. If you don't have all those tools to do that, you can just replace it and see what happens.  It's I guess you can say an educated guess. I don't know, John.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Educated guess sounds like a good term for it; and how much would it cost?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Most sensors run between forty and seventy five dollars and they just plug into a little harness in the back. On occasion, there will be some issues trying to get the plug connector through the small hole where the sensor goes, and at times you have to pull the unit out and take the back panel off.  That's what I would lean towards, and again you can always call a service person out and have them verify this for you.

 

VIRGINIA

Okay. Thank you.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

But for between forty and seventy five dollars, it seems to me that would be a good idea to check that out rather than buy a new range.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, it certainly versus getting a new range. Obviously, it depends on age and condition, as well as whether it's a built-in unit. A lot of people have some really nice appliances and their cupboards and stuff are made to facilitate those being there. So then five or ten or twenty years down the road, something conks out and they go to look at replacing it and all of a suddenly there isn't an appliance of the same size. So you have to do some carpentry to get it to fit, and the cost starts multiplying at a pretty quick rate.

 

1998 Maytag Neptune Washing Machine Filling With Water After Spin Cycle

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And, here with a question on a Maytag washer, Ken in Belleville, on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead please, Ken.

 

KEN

I have a Maytag Neptune washer; it's about ten years old, one of the very early ones and I'm having a problem with it filling with water after the cycle ends. In other words, after it has spun dry and shuts off, if I don't immediately reach in and grab the clothes then they're going to be swimming in water.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So, the water is coming back into the machine after the cycle is done?

 

KEN

That's correct.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

All right. And this happens all the time or some of the time?

 

KEN

It happens every time.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Every time. Well, it's either a mechanical or an electrical failure. Meaning that either something is telling the unit to fill again, which is more than likely in the circuit board or it's possible that the water valve itself is sticking open mechanically; it's not seating and shutting off at the end of the rinse cycle. The easiest way to tell which it is, after the cycle is done and water starts coming in, unplug the unit.  If the water stops, then you know it's not an electrical problem because the unit's unplugged. Then I would lean more towards the water valve sticking open.

 

KEN

Okay. So if I unplug it and the water stops that would seem to indicate that it's an electrical problem. 

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right, because if you're terminating any electricity to the valve and it shuts off, then you then know that the valve can physically shut off, but it's being told electrically to stay open. If it continues to run into the tub, then I would lean more towards the water valve leaking.

 

KEN

Okay. Very good.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That's one way to cut the problem in half and see which way to go. But from what you're describing, I'd say you probably have a problem in the fill circuit or something in one of the boards or relays is sticking and telling it to go ahead and fill again.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Do you have to get a whole new board if that's the case?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, you do. You say you've got a first generation one?

 

KEN

Yes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So you've had a little work done on this?

 

KEN

Actually, I haven't had any work done! It was only after I started researching this problem that I discovered that there had been...not a recall, but some warranty problems with it.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

I think they call those field retrofits. Some fancy name like that.

 

KEN

Now am I going to find some information about this on your website?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes, go to RepairClinic.com. If you have any specific questions you can actually buy a manual for this unit, which I would recommend. Again with all the electronics in here, it's better to have the manual, not only to learn how to get into it, but also to make the electrical checks with it.  But the one thing you may want to consider is, given all the stuff you have learned, I would also have a good look at the rest of the unit and see if there are any other things that look like they could have some trouble. For instance, if you see any leaks in the rear bearing area, any unusual noises. There are other things that can conk out and be pretty expensive to repair.

 

KEN

Okay. How much do you think it would cost to fix this if it is an electrical problem?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

If you need a new main circuit board, you're probably looking at one hundred and fifty bucks for the board if you do it yourself.

 

KEN

Okay. Thank you for your time, guys.

 

Side by Side Refrigerator Ice Dispenser Produces Only Crushed Ice Not Cubed

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And here's a question on a side by side refrigerator from Bill, in Southfield, on the Appliance Repair Show.

 

BILL

Yes. Do you need the model number first?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

What's your question?

 

BILL

Okay. Side by side doors, when I push the cube button, I get crushed ice.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay.

 

BILL

There's two buttons: a crushed ice and a cubed ice, and when I push the button for cubed, I get crushed, and I'm wondering, is it a problem-

 

JOHN SOWDEN

You get crushed ice no matter what?

 

BILL

Yes, sir.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. What happens is when you select the cubed or the crushed option, what you're doing is you're turning on or off the solenoid in the back of the freezer section.

 

BILL

Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And all that does is it lifts up a little arm in the bucket assembly. If you slide your ice bucket out you'll see a little arm that's sticking out the back of it, and that slides into a yoke that the solenoid is mounted to; that basically is like a shifter in a car where it either gages or disengages the blades for the auger. So it's not being actuated properly. This could be from the solenoid failing, meaning it's burned open. It also could be the little circuit board back there that is not telling it to do it.  Or, you could have a problem, which is probably more likely, where the solenoid has shorted out, and that has taken out the circuit board. So if you find that the solenoid is shorted, then you might want to look at the board too or just replace it along with that, because often times one will cause the other.

 

BILL

Okay. Replace the board?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

If you find the solenoid has shorted, if it's burned open, then it might not be a problem, but if it's shorted, obviously anything else in that circuit could be adversely affected.

 

BILL

Okay. We're talking about in the back of the unit? We're not talking about the buttons at all?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, yes we are. The circuit board is behind the buttons. 

 

BILL

Oh, okay, that's in the door!

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Exactly. The solenoid, to access that you need to slide out your ice bucket and then you look at a little square hole where that metal arm that I was talking about goes in, and then the solenoid is back there. 

 

BILL

Okay. What am I looking at in terms of cost of repair?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

To replace both components you're probably looking at one hundred and fifty bucks in parts.

 

BILL

Okay then. Thanks so much.

The Appliance Repair Show

Looking for
appliance parts
or advice?