Appliance Repair Show Transcript - March 23, 2008

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2001 Frigidaire Dryer is Tumbling But Not Heating

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Here's Joe, in Montrose, on the Appliance Repair Show. Hi Joe, go ahead.

 

JOE

Yeah, I've got a Frigidaire clothes dryer that stopped heating all of a sudden. Everything else works, but it just stopped heating. I checked the breaker switch and it's fine, so what are the possibilities here that I need to look at?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, checking the breaker switch, did you cycle it on and off just to make sure it was set?

 

JOE

Right.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That's a good first place to start, but in reality you need to start where the dryer plugs into the wall and make sure that you have two hundred and forty volts to the dryer and one hundred and ten volts on each leg.

 

JOE

Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So between the common and each incoming power leg, make sure that you have one hundred and twenty volts, and then across both hot leads that you have two hundred and forty, because you need both of the legs there in order to make it heat. And that's something that has been a source of many an argument between service people and customers, where you come out and you find it's just a blown fuse, or the breaker just has one side of it open, or even just a loose wire in the receptacle. All kinds of things, and just because it tumbles doesn't mean that you have the proper voltage going to the dryer.

 

JOE

I see.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

If that checks out okay, the most common problems you will find that would cause that will be a broken element or a failed thermostat. The element on yours is behind the drum, so you have to take the drum out of the unit to access it.

 

JOE

Oh, okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

And if you go to our website, www.RepairClinic.com, we have instructions on how to tear that dryer apart for you. Just go to the "Contact Us" section, or just type in "Dryer Help", and put in your email address and we have a large library of documents that will give you some step-by-step instructions of how to access that.

 

JOE

Okay. Now this dryer is about seven and a half years old, and it was a fairly cheap dryer when I bought it. Is there some kind of rule about when it's not worth repairing as compared to buying a new one?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Most often it's half the cost of new is kind of the rule of thumb. That always has factors such as, is it right after Christmas and you're just getting your Visa bills and you don't want to buy a new one, and all that good stuff. So there are a lot of things that come into it. And plus, when you start talking repair, if it's something you do yourself, that automatically reduces the amount of money you're putting into it. If you need an element or something like that for the unit, at seven or eight years old, with normal use, that's not an uncommon thing. So, I wouldn't think that it hasn't served you well, as far as that goes. But yeah, if you can do it yourself and save a few bucks, I'd say that unit is probably worth putting a few dollars into. A lot of the wearing common parts on your unit would be the same as one that you would go purchase today of the same product line. So, it's not like you're buying a better mousetrap there.

 

JOE

Yeah. I have one other question:  what are your thoughts on the compact dryers that are only one hundred and twenty volts?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

They're great for applications where you do not have service, for apartments, things of that nature. The biggest problem I've seen, as far as that goes, is when people use them like the way they would at a laundromat, where they really run them and load them up all day. They're really not designed for a family of six or something of that nature. They do work, but obviously as far as generating the heat, it's a longer dry time.

 

JOE

Alright.

 

1990 Washing Machine Makes Loud Slapping Noise at End of Spin Cycle and Leaving Grease Spots

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Here's Bill, in Rochester Hills, with another washer/dryer type question on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead please, Bill.

 

BILL

When my washer is finishing its cycle, completing the spin cycle, it's making a very loud slapping noise. It's almost like slapping sticks on a cement driveway. And yesterday, during the last load, I took a towel out and there was a small spot of grease on it. I wondered if they might be related.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Quite possibly. It could be that the transmission has had it. If you take the agitator off, which you just pull straight up on, and look underneath it; if you see any traces of oil, then what's happening is the transmission is leaking up to the top seal of the transmission and into the tub. It may or may not be related-the slapping could be the inner tub hitting the outer shell, which over a period of time is not uncommon. This is what, about a fifteen or twenty year old washer?

 

BILL

Yes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

The other thing is that, the clutch itself, there are components inside the clutch that could be worn and on shut down are sloppy and hitting the outer wall. But if it needs a transmission at that age, you might want to look at another washing machine. So if it's leaking, you can put a new trans in, but you would be putting one hundred and fifty or two hundred dollars into a washing machine that's getting to the point where it wouldn't be worth repairing.

 

BILL

Okay, I see. So as you told the previous caller, it's if the repair is half the cost of a new one, then?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That's generally the rule of thumb. There are all kinds of things that come into play, but if it's something you do yourself you can save a few bucks. If it's a three year old machine and it was expensive and it needs repairing, I always say you might want to look at repairing it, just because it's not that old. But at fifteen or twenty years old, I'm sure it's had quite a few loads of laundry through it. Especially if you haven't had any other repair bills, if it's terminal it's a good thing because then you're not nickel and diming yourself through the next three or four years on things going wrong.

 

BILL

Okay. But the transmission is something that I could replace myself?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Sure.

 

BILL

Very good, and that's something that I could call your location and order?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

That's correct.

 

BILL

Thank you very much.

 

1994 Magic Chef Dishwasher Not Draining After Last Cycle

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And we go now to Marie, in Warren, for a question on a Magic Chef on the Appliance Repair Show. Hi Marie. Go ahead please?

 

MARIE

Good morning. Do they still make Magic Chef's?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes, they do.

 

MARIE

I'm laughing because this one has to be at least thirteen years old. What's happening is its not draining. So I'm thinking it's giving me a hint that it's going to quit.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, not draining can be something simple. Have you had a garbage disposal installed recently?

 

MARIE

No.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay because a lot of the "not draining" complaints, believe it or not, are from people putting in a new disposal and where you hook the dishwasher boot up to drain the dishwasher into it, there's a plug. And if you don't knock that plug out with a screwdriver (part # 8830) and a hammer (part # 818-16) to let the water drain through, then you've put in a new disposal and created a new problem, which is your dishwasher doesn't drain.

 

MARIE

No, don't have that problem. I just have no draining.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Now, the water, when you listen to it run, when it's time to drain, do you hear a big clunking sound?

 

MARIE

I have heard a little bit of a noise on it lately. It drains, it goes through its cycle, but then at the very end when you open it up, there's water just sitting in there.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. Well, what happens in that pump assembly is there's a little door that holds the water in when it's washing. When it's time to drain they have a solenoid mounted to the flapper or that little door, you hear a clunk and that's the solenoid kicking in that opens the drain door and allows the water to drain out. It's possible that the solenoid has failed electrically. Or have you broken any glasses in there or anything recently?

 

MARIE

No.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, because debris can also cause that to not physically open.

 

MARIE

No, I rinse before I put it in. I probably almost wash the dishes before they go into the dishwasher.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, and that's something that a lot of people do. In reality you're better off to leave a little bit of food, egg yolk, ketchup, things of that nature on the plates because the protein in the food is what acts with the detergents and actually does a better job of breaking down the detergent. It makes the water "wetter" as they say and does a better job of cleaning.

 

MARIE

Oh, that's interesting!

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

I just learned something!

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes. I've seen those commercials where someone puts a whole cake in there. I wouldn't do that! But leaving a little bit on there is good because it actually interacts with the soap better. Your soap has nothing to clean if you wash it all off. The other thing to get into is if you wash them in the sink first and you leave a couple of drops of regular dishwasher detergent on there, then it makes a big sudsy mess inside the dishwasher, because regular dishwashing detergent that you would use in your sink is made to suds, but the dishwashing detergent you put in your dishwasher is not.

 

MARIE

I know that.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So when your motor is turning around 3,000 RPMs in your dishwasher, it would be like stirring your hand in the sink at that speed and it would really suds up. So that's another problem. Now back to your drain issue. I would start by making sure the drain line from the dishwasher at your disposal, or your air gap, if you have one. Check your air gap and make sure it's not plugged.  Do you have a little silver chrome dome on the side of your faucet?

 

MARIE

No, I do not have that. I know what you're talking about. That air thing that you can lift up and clean out. No, I don't have that.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay.  I would make sure that the drain line is clear, because it could just be plugged. After that I would suspect something in the motor pump assembly. It's either not opening or there's something caught in there. In order to inspect it, if there's something caught in there, you will have to take the motor and pump out and physically look in there and see if there's something caught in the drain port assembly.

 

MARIE

Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

You can get the solenoid separately. On your unit, I would say if you remove the lower panel and grab a flashlight and look in there, you might see a small trace of water where it might have been dripping over a period of time, and that's just the motor seal starting to fail. If you were going to put the money into it, I'd put a new motor and pump assembly into it. It's about a hundred and thirty five dollars for the part. If you have somebody come out and do it, you'll have probably at least a couple hundred bucks into it.

 

MARIE

Ah, it's not worth it, then.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right.

 

MARIE

I'd go with new then. Just for curiosity though, when you mentioned if it's draining it's water all the way through the cycle, and then stops draining at the very end, the water is clean in there now. It's not like it's overflowing in the bin of the dishwasher. So if anything, it's still working in terms of cleanliness, so to speak, because the dishes are clean.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, it could be draining out at certain points and the timer could be just failing for the last drain. Or, it could be that the solenoid I described earlier, after it's actuated a few times, it can actually get hot and open up or make the circuit where it won't open the actuator on the solenoid. And then after it gets a chance to cool down, then it will work for three or four times in a row.

 

MARIE

Okay. Well, I think I'm getting a new one.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay.

 

MARIE

Or, I'm washing by hand for the rest of my life! Thank you and have a good day.

 

1988 Countertop Microwave, Model R320BK, LED Display Wearing Out

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Here's Mary, in Clinton Township, with a question on a microwave on the Appliance Repair Show. Mary, go ahead please.

 

MARY

Yes. My keypad (part # 41QBP4365), the numbers, the timing thing on that, it's not been working for some time now. I do have the model number. The gentleman asked for it but I couldn't find it. But I have it now.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. It's an R-something or other?

 

MARY

Yes, you're right. It's R320BK. It's probably pretty old.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. I'm trying to get a handle on what your exact complaint is. Is it that you have no display on the microwave, or that when you press a number or command it does not register?

 

MARY

On the numbers, for the timing, you see a few little squiggly lines, but it's nothing you can read.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Okay, so like the LED (part # 42QBP4694) is broken?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

You can't see the clock (part # 42QBP4694) or anything like that?

 

MARY

That's right.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

The LED display is conked out on you? 

 

MARY

Right.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Unfortunately due to the age of this unit and the cost of the LED (part # 42QBP4694), even if it's still available, because you have to get the whole circuit board (part # 42QBP4694) itself, you might want to look at another microwave. Is this an over the range microwave?

 

MARY

No, it isn't.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

It's a table top? You can get one of those pretty inexpensively. I don't show on our site where the circuit board is still available. If you want to give us a call at 888-343-4948, they can research that and give you a price on a new control board (part # 42QBP4694).

 

MARY

It's probably not worth it, then.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Given the age of the unit, if it's twenty years old, that's something that I'd recommend somebody come out and put in. So you're going to have at least a hundred and fifty dollars into the repair.

 

MARY

And there are a lot of them on sale now.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

They've really come down in price since you've purchased that. You can get one with a lot of options, and for under a hundred bucks you can get a pretty decent table top unit

 

MARY

That's exactly the thing I wanted to know!

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay.

 

MARY

Thanks a lot!

 

1996 Maytag Dryer, Model DE7400, Making Loud Noise on Startup

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Here's Larry, in Temperance, with a dryer question, on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead please, Larry.

 

LARRY

Good morning. I've got a Maytag heavy duty dryer model DE70400. When we first start it up it sounds like we have a drum full of tennis shoes. It's real loud. Then it will settle down when it starts to go. It's about twelve years old, so I don't know what's going on.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Is it drying the clothes, or is it taking longer than usual?

 

LARRY

No, it's drying the clothes.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

So you get a loud slapping noise when you first start it up?

 

LARRY

Right, and then it will quiet down. But I think it's getting louder all the time.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right. There are a couple of components that can cause this condition. There's a set of wheels or rollers (part # 12001541) that the rear drum rides on. It could be that one of those is worn or has a flat spot on it. There's also an idler pulley (part # Y303705) that the belt (part # Y312959) rides through to put tension on the belt. That could, again, be worn out.  The other thing that you want to inspect when you're in there is that the blower wheel (part # Y303836) for that unit, the thing that turns on the motor shaft and moves air around, is a plastic blower wheel mounted to a metal shaft on the motor (part # Y303358), and at times as something falls down the lint trap and seizes the blade for moving, you can actually turn or spin the motor shaft inside the plastic blade. So what's happening is, where the flat spot used to be on the blade that engages the motor shaft, it is now worn smooth, so the motor (part # Y303358) is kind of turning inside the blower wheel (part # Y303836). What happens is, on startup it will slap around for a while, and then as it runs it will kind of work itself on the motor shaft. It will turn and look like it's drying okay, but it's not turning revolution for revolution on the motor shaft; you just have this shaft spinning inside this plastic wheel (part # Y303836).  To get at that unit, that's a pretty straightforward dryer to take apart.

 

LARRY

Okay.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Once you unplug it, there are two screws at the base panel, so that once you remove it just grab the panel and lift up at the bottom. So then it will release from the top and then you have to detach a few wires going to the door switch (part # W10169313), which you might want to make sure you put them back right.

 

LARRY

With it being twelve years old, is it worth putting some money into it?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

I would. For something like this, the parts are pretty inexpensive. Even if you rebuild it, put in some rollers (part # 12001541) and a new blower wheel (part # Y303836), even a new idler pulley (part # Y303705) for the belt (part # Y312959), you'd have, I don't know, sixty or seventy dollars if you replace pretty much all the wearing parts inside that. Get in there and vacuum it all out to make sure it's safe to continue using. You could get another ten or fifteen years out of it. That's really one of the most common things is wearing parts, if the drum turns.

 

LARRY

What if I just don't do anything and let it keep going?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

If it's the blower wheel (part # Y303836) and it's not turning up to speed, you're going to cause overheat conditions, and you're going to have more lint buildup inside the machine than you normally would because you're not moving the air through as you normally would. So it could cause other more serious things.

 

LARRY

So I'd better take a look at it.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Exactly. Too much heat inside a dryer is not a good thing.

 

LARRY

Okay. I enjoy your show. Thank you!

 

1993 Norge Washing Machine Tub Enamel is Peeling Off

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Here's Sue, in Redford, with a washer question, on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead please, Sue.

 

SUE

My question is I have an old Norge washing machine, which I bought at Highland Appliance when they were going out of business.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Wow, that was a few years back!

 

SUE

Is that a few years back? I can't remember! Anyway, the enamel on the inside of the tub is peeling off. Is there anything I can do about that? The rest of the machine is still working great.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, they make porcelain repair patch type products and in order to make those work properly you, need to kind of sand down the area and apply the epoxy and let it sit. I've had kind of minimal success with that because the abrasion from the zippers and snaps and things on your clothes will eventually wear that back off. So it's kind of a short-term solution.

 

SUE

Yeah.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

The long term solution would be to replace the inner tub, which is probably a hundred and fifty dollars for a new inner tub, along with a little more labor than most people want to get into. It's not too terrible, but if the unit is what, fifteen years old?

 

SUE

Yeah.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Then it might not be worth it.

 

SUE

I just want to make it last until it's absolutely beyond repair.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right. You can try some of the solutions that are made to patch porcelain sinks, things of that nature. Again, it's kind of a stopgap solution. The other thing to consider is that even though you go through all the work of cleaning out the inside of the tub, the part you can see, the outer side of the tub could be compromised and you'd still get rust and things on the clothes from the outer tub. So if you were going to do that, I'd recommend pulling the tub out and doing the whole thing. Which again, is probably not worth it.

 

SUE

Okay. So I can just try that, even though I know it's going to fail very soon. Alright, thanks for your help.

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And of course, all that repair stuff you carry.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, some of that repair stuff, the manufacturers make it for oven liners and things of that nature, but you can use it for other things like sinks. Yeah, something like this is, like I said, a short term solution and normally it will just wear away. You want to make sure you're not going to get something that's going to release itself on the clothes too.

 

1998 Magic Chef Range Surface Burners Only Work on High Heat

 

JOHN SOWDEN

I think we're going to speak to Mike, in Harper Woods, about his Magic Chef range, next. How's that?

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

That sounds good. Go ahead Mike!

 

MIKE

I have a Magic Chef stove that's been in the home when I purchased it, and that was ten years ago.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay.

 

MIKE

And it's one with solid burners. It's not the solid surface. I guess it's called a French top?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Ah, they're European style burners. The discs.

 

MIKE

Yes and I like it. It's very reliable, except for the fact that on some of the burners...

 

JOHN SOWDEN

They take forever to heat?

 

MIKE

No, there are two large burners and then opposing smaller ones?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Right.

 

MIKE

And on the smaller ones, if I put it on low it just goes right to high. The two large burners work fine and the thermostats work fine, but the dials on the other two, it's constantly on high after I turn it on. Now I understand that it may be the thermostat switch, and you can maybe try a little electrical cleaner on there. Would that be futile?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, I would replace the switches. The switches are about thirty-five to forty bucks a piece. For tearing them apart and trying to clean them and all that good stuff, then you run into situations where, if you set it on low and it looks like it's working and for some reason you have to run outside and move the garden hose around and it goes back to high and you have a boil over. I wouldn't trust it if I did that. Especially since this is a ten or fifteen year old unit. So I would just replace the switches for that, and you'd be better off.

 

MIKE

Now, if I find that is not the problem, can those be returned?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

You can return them, but I can tell you, normally, if you set it to low and it's on high, then the switch has failed, unless you've got some kind of a ground or weird wiring within the unit. But most often that's what you call a runaway condition, and that's just when you turn the switch on, the contacts are stuck to high because the internal portion of the switch has failed.

 

MIKE

Now, to get at those thermostats, does the unit have to come away from the wall, or can I get at that from the top screws on the top?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Since you have to change the wires and everything else, you're going to probably be better off to slide it out, unplug it, and then, of course, you have to sweep behind it because you find all the stuff back there. But I would slide it out and remove the back panel. To get at the front side of the switch, you'll have to remove the knobs and the top of the control panel, and probably the glass or escutcheon that is in front of it, to get at the screws that mount the switch.

 

MIKE

I got ya.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

It's not too bad. Just make sure that when you change the switch that you mark the wires and that you have L1 and L2, line one and line two, incoming voltage and then normally H1 and H2, which are going out to the burners. And then the P, which is for the pilot light or the light that shows that the surface is on. If you cross up the L1 and L2 on the new switch and turn it on, you're going to hear a loud pop and you'll not only wipe out that switch but the remainder of them, because you're running line voltage to line voltage. So if you go wire for wire, mark what's on the old switch, new switch; if there are any instructions on the new switch, read those beforehand. Everybody reads them afterward!

 

MIKE

After it pops! You said the L1 and the L2, that's line one and line two?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes, those are just the incoming power leads to the switch. They're banked across the switches in there. If you take the back off you'll see that every switch has a red and a black wire going from each switch to each switch.

 

MIKE

So just go one at a time and mark them accordingly and it's pretty straightforward?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

It's pretty straightforward. Of course, unplug the stove first.

 

MIKE

Of course! Is there anything else I need to do while I'm in there?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

You shouldn't have to if everything else is working fine.

 

MIKE

Okay. Well thank you for your help. I do appreciate it.

 

GE Side by Side Refrigerator Ice Maker Water Supply Line Has Kink and Leaking

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

With our first ice maker question of the day, here's Diane in Livonia, on the Appliance Repair Show. Hi Diane, go ahead.

 

DIANE

Hi. I have a question:  we have a GE with the chilled water and ice in the door, and the upper water supply for the ice cube tray...I don't know, we cleaned it over the weekend, and now we see there's a kink in it and that it's leaking. So we're wondering what we should do to replace that upper water supply line.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

This is going from the water valve to the fill tube at the top of the ice maker?

 

DIANE

Right.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah and it was kinked somehow or broken?

 

DIANE

It looks like whoever moved it last might have tucked it in, and it seems like it's not a flexible tube, it's more of a harder plastic.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Most of the tubing going from the water valve to the top of the ice maker is just quarter inch flexible plastic tubing, which you can obtain at any hardware store or home store.  You just need a quarter inch nut and ferrule. Some will have a one-piece plastic nut for that. If the other one on the valve is not in too bad of shape you can even reuse it. And then basically where it goes into the fill tube on the ice maker, it normally just pushes in there, and there may be a small clamp. But normally there's not a real secure connection at the top there, because there's no water pressure. The water just comes up that tube and then travels down the fill tube into the ice maker, so it's not like it has to hold any water pressure there.

 

DIANE

Okay. On that quarter inch, is it possible to put a sleeve on that?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, they make plastic sleeves with a brass insert that you put inside there. And they also, again, make just the nut with all of that in one piece, which is the ferrule and the nut together, where you just slide the plastic tube in and turn it down. Probably the best thing to do is to, if you wanted to, take the valve off and go to a home store, even our counter is open today, and they can fix you up. You can also go to our website and just search by tubing and water supply, either by the model number on your unit, or just in general order, I think we have some in six feet lengths by various manufacturers that you could order if you didn't want to shoot down to the local hardware store.

 

DIANE

So that'll slip right out of that cap up at the top, then?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes.

 

DIANE

And just pull that whole unit off and take it up there?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

The tube just should push into the fill tube at the top of the refrigerator. And there might be a small clamp on that that you'll have to take off, but it just pushes up inside there.

 

DIANE

Great. Thank you so much.

 

2000 Maytag Neptune Front Loading Washing Machine Getting Moldy Around Rubber Boot

 

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And we go now to a question on a Maytag washer, from Maria, in Melvindale, on the Appliance Repair Show.

 

MARIA

Yes. I have a Maytag Neptune washing machine. It's around eight years old, and I have a problem with the rubber around the front. It has mold. I tried to clean it with bleach but it comes back again. It comes back again.

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes, that's not an uncommon problem with some of the front loading machines out there, because in between wash times some of those boots will hold a little water in there and you'll get a little mold buildup. I'd recommend cleaning it off physically; get in there with a rag and a little bit of bleach water and wiping it all down. Then run the machine through a hot setting, hot wash cycle, with a little more bleach in there. In the last several months, they've come out with a product that I've heard nothing but good things about, and it's called Affresh (part # W10135699), and what it is, it's some tablets that you put into the machine, and if you go to our website, it is the RepairClinic item number 1373065, and I do believe this is produced by Maytag/Whirlpool. What it is, is three tablets that the first time you use it, I think they instruct you to use all three, and after that periodically, every month or so, just run a load without any clothes in it, and throw one of those tablets in and it's supposed to work better than bleach and help break down some of the soap scum and residue to help clean it out. But this is something that you're going to have to maintain a little bit as the use of the unit goes on.

 

MARIA

But it doesn't do any damage with the clothes or anything else?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

The more you let it build up, if you put a nice sweater or something in there and as you open the door and pull it out and it comes in contact with the mold around the door, it probably wouldn't be a good thing. So I'd start out by trying to clean it up as much as you possibly can, and then start the treatment.

 

MARIA

Okay. You don't recommend I call the repair man and put a new rubber around the door?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

You could change the boot if you wish. On some models, there was a boot that had a different style which had a small drain in the bottom of it and then, actually a secondary pump which helps spray a little water around the door area to help rinse that out. Some units had it, some didn't. As long as it's not leaking, putting a new boot on is not going to do a lot more than if you were to thoroughly clean the one you have.

 

MARIA

Okay. Do you sell it over at the place where you repair?

 

JOHN SOWDEN

Certainly do. You can log into our website, www.RepairClinic.com and you can put your model number in and you can see all the common parts and how much they cost and any accessories, the Affresh (part # W10135699) product I mentioned, for your Maytag washer.

 

MARIA

Okay. Thank you very much. Have a nice day.

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