Appliance Repair Show Transcript - November 4, 2007

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2002 Whirlpool Side By Side Refrigerator with Broken Water Supply Line for the Dispenser

JOHN MCCULLOCH

John Sowden with RepairClinic.com will answer questions, and we'll start things off this morning with Tim, in Jackson, with a five-year-old fridge with water supply problems here on News Talk 760 WJR.

TIM

Hi, thanks for taking my call. I have a Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerator with the ice and water in the door. And, we just recently moved, and during the move the water supply line got pinched off where it comes out of the freezer door and we can't figure out how to get in there to pour more out, if there is more in there, or what to do to reconnect.

JOHN SOWDEN

You broke the water line where it goes into the freezer door for the water dispenser?

TIM

Right.

JOHN SOWDEN

You might have to get another piece of tubing. Normally, that's attached with a screw and a clamp at the dispenser where you put your glass in, and then that tubing is fed through a small channel through the door itself. One way to do it is to disconnect the water supply tube at the dispenser area and then you can use a piece of wire or something like that and tape it to the existing tube and pull it down through the bottom of the door and then use that wire to feed it back up through that channel. Otherwise, take the door off, take the door apart, and try to feed it up through there, which is not a lot of fun. It depends on the tubing, sometimes you can splice it, they have some quick connect fittings if it's not in too bad a shape, but otherwise you may end up getting a new water tank assembly that comes with all the tubing and all that good stuff to re-route all that tubing if you don't splice it. It could be a somewhat costly endeavor if you don't patch it.

TIM

Okay. Thanks.

2001 Kitchen Aid Side by Side Refrigerator/Freezer Has Frost Buildup around the Door Area Where the Ice Comes Out

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Here's Brett, in Rockwood, with a Kitchen Aid icemaker, on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead, Brett.

BRETT

I got a Kitchen Aid it's a side by side, and its accumulating frost where the ice comes out through the door dispenser on the freezer side. Inside it's at the removable tray that retains the ice, the reservoir for ice; it builds up frost to the point where it's dragging when you open up the freezer door into where the door sits underneath the tray. Now we've looked at the seal in there and the seal seems very good there and we thought, well, it's an ice cube hanging up, so after every time we used through the door dispensing we pulled the door open and made sure there was no ice in there and it flaps back shut, you know there's a foam rubber seal in there. I don't know if maybe the defrost timer might be out on that, if it's a common problem for that model. It's quite, I mean it's not ancient, but it's six years old or so.

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, if it was a defrost problem, a defrost timer problem, your refrigerator would quit cooling. That would affect the cooling capacity of the refrigerator. If you're getting a frost or ice buildup around the door area where the ice and water comes out, then more than likely the problem you have is that it's not sealing in that area. It doesn't take a lot of door leakage in that little flapper to cause that to start to frost and ice up. Some have, if you put the model number in complete as it reads off the machine into our website, there may be a door kit for that. Sometimes they come out with a new and improved door flapper or kind of a rebuild kit in some of those things. Normally, from what you're describing, frost in that area is almost always due to door leakage. The other thing is if you use a lot of crushed ice, and it's possible that just over time that could build up. I would start out with just removing all the frost and ice from that area, and even empty out the ice bin, sometimes you have a lot of ice chip buildup in the bottom, and just start over and if it continues I'd lean toward replacing that damper door in the icemaker assembly.

BRETT

And the website?

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes. Repairclinic.com

JOHN MCCULLOCH

That's the way that you do it, and you get the complete diagram, and if there is a new and improved, it will be right in there.

JOHN SOWDEN

If you put your model number in there you'll get a list of all the common parts, we have a picture of everything that comes through the door, so if it's available, or if nothing else people look at the appliance and say that it looks okay but then if they see a picture of the new part and can then tell if there's wear or something of that nature.

Amana Halogen Plus Range with a Non-working Control Board

JOHN MCCULLOCH

We go now to Bob, in Grosse Pointe, with an oven problem on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead, Bob!

BOB

Yes, I have an Amana Halogen Plus counter range, the number's 770M, and it seems like normally you hit the button and set the temperature, and that part's just dead. Everything else seems to work, though.

JOHN SOWDEN

For the oven?

BOB

Right, right, it's like an electronic oven control.

JOHN SOWDEN

Right and the rest of the surface burners, everything else works okay?

BOB

Right.

JOHN SOWDEN

And is the display lit up for the clock?

BOB

Right, right the display seems to work otherwise.

JOHN SOWDEN

So you can get your time, but when you hit "bake" nothing happens?

BOB

You can't, I assume you normally turn the knob to set the temperature, and it's just nothing.

JOHN SOWDEN

When you go to turn the knob, normally it will scroll through...

BOB

Yeah, you turn the knob and nothing happens, and then it's just nothing, everything else seems fine.

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, the first thing I would do just to rule it out, is to check the oven sensor, which is a small piece that sticks out in the oven cavity, it looks like half a pencil.

BOB

Okay, I'll use my voltmeter; I'm good at that.

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes, you should be reading, at room temperature, a thousand ohms for something like that. If that checks out okay, I'd lean towards the control board has had it.

BOB

That's the main monster board for the whole thing?

JOHN SOWDEN

That's it.

BOB

Could it be the main element is bad?

JOHN SOWDEN

Normally what you would get if the element went bad is you would get the control to set up and take the program to bake, but it wouldn't heat. So it would stay at 350 and just sit there.

BOB

Could it be a power failure that just made it ruin itself?

JOHN SOWDEN

It could be - sometimes they quit, sometimes there are voltage spikes, brownouts...

BOB

That's what I was told, that the power was out for a bit.

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, and you could just try turning the power off to the range for three or four minutes and turn it back on and see if it resets.

BOB

We did that, I'd thought of that.

JOHN MCCULLOCH

We've had this year I think two major brownouts in the Grosse Pointes, and that just wreaked havocs.

BOB

Can I read that sensor in circuit, or do I have to remove it?

JOHN SOWDEN

You have to look at the circuit but you have to isolate it. Normally, you can take the two screws out that retain it to the back wall, and if they gave you enough wiring harness you can pull it out and check it. If not, then you have to normally get at the back of the unit. A lot of times on the board itself, if you look at the wiring diagram it will show you what pins they're using for that wiring harness, and you can check it there.

BOB

Check it from the back?

JOHN SOWDEN

Right, from the board itself. That's something that, depending on where it's at, could be easier than trying to wrestle it out of there.

BOB

So if the sensor reads well, what's the name of what I have to replace?

JOHN SOWDEN

It would be the main control board, the main clock, the clock circuit board assembly; every major manufacturer has their own nomenclature for it. The brain is what people refer to most often.

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And then you would go to RepairClinic.com and put the model number in there.

BOB

I've been to the website a bit already.

JOHN SOWDEN

And we need the model number as it reads off the unit itself, not the brochure. A lot of times people will put the model number off the brochure into the website and generally the brochures are printed to cover many different models, so it's sort of a general use and care guide.

BOB

I don't have any paperwork for it. We got the number off of the little tag down hidden behind the hinge.

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, well, good luck, hopefully you'll get it working before Thanksgiving!

BOB

I'm praying for a sensor!

2002 Jenn Air Side by Side Refrigerator Not Cooling

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Let's go to Farmington and talk to John about a five year old Jenn Air, on the Appliance Repair Show. Good morning, John.

JOHN

I've got a five-year-old Jenn Air side-by-side refrigerator/freezer. About a month ago, refrigerator side seemed to just be getting a bit warmer and we made the normal adjustments with temperature controls and that sort of thing. It seemed to get cold again for about a week, but then the past two weeks it's been getting progressively warmer. I can't see any obstructions, I've cleaned under and behind and what not.

JOHN SOWDEN

And the refrigerator section is not cold enough, and the freezer is still doing all right or is that starting to lose its capacity as well?

JOHN

Freezer seems fine.

JOHN SOWDEN

Normally, a defrost problem will slowly accumulate as you described, but eventually the freezer and the refrigerator will quit if you have a frost buildup on your evaporator coils. It starves your refrigerator section first, for cold air, and then over time, in a week or so, it finally restricts enough that your freezer starts having problems. In this case, if you're just having problems with your refrigerator, without knowing exactly what unit you have, a lot of them will have a damper assembly and a damper control assembly, and what that is, is just a thermostatically operated door that allows more or less cold air into the refrigerator, and it could be just sticking or has failed. That's normally the knob that you set for the refrigerator section for the cold capacity for that, it's the control behind that that would cause it.

JOHN

Yeah, there's a slide bar at the top, on the refrigerator side, that controls temperature for the refrigerator and freezer. So it's up in that area in back?

JOHN SOWDEN

Again, get the model number as it reads off the unit, go to Repairclinic.com, and it will show if there's a damper control assembly for that and it will give you an idea of what you're looking for, and that will make it a little easier to get started, is to know what you're looking for.

JOHN

Okay, and both refrigerator and freezer run off the same compressor and everything, so if the compressor were failing, it would be-

JOHN SOWDEN

It depends on your unit. Most have a single compressor, but there are a lot of units out there today, especially the big units, will have two separate compressors. Again, I need the specifics of what you have in your home to answer that question specifically, but most often the norm out there is a single compressor and then they just split off the air flow to the refrigerator section from the freezer section to help cool it.

JOHN

Got it.

2005 Kenmore H2 Front Load Washing Machine Is Getting an F21 Error Code

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And next, we'll go to Gary, in South Carolina, with a question on a Kenmore washer on the Appliance Repair Show.

GARY

I have a Kenmore HE2 front load that's about two years old. It starts the cycle in drain mode and then it turns through that for about four minutes, and then it comes up with an error code, and from the tech manual I see that the drain pump or drain hose is not working properly. So, I took the drain hose and the drain pump out, that works fine, everything fine with the pumps so I'm wondering where to go from here? No water in the machine...

JOHN SOWDEN

The error code says that you have a drain problem, or it's sensing that it's not getting rid of the water, then?

GARY

Right, it says F21 code, which means out of garment rinse.

JOHN SOWDEN

And that again, translates in the troubleshooting guide as a failed washer pump or drain restriction?

GARY

Correct.

JOHN SOWDEN

And you've said you've checked the drain hose and that's clear, and there's nothing caught in the pump?

GARY

No. I took the pump apart, took it up to Liongold's there, runs like a champ, and there's no water in the machine, pulled out the filter, the filter's clean.

JOHN SOWDEN

And it's still sensing that. I would suspect at that point, some of these machines have one or two pressure switches that are what's sensing that, and it could be that the pressure switch has failed, or the hose going to the pressure switch is restricted and it's sensing that the unit is full. So normally that's telling the board, I've got too much water, and if it's draining, everything is there, then it's getting a false reading, which I would expect is the pressure switch or just the control board itself is sensing an incorrect signal. Yeah, again, if the pump is clear, there's nothing caught in the tubs, sometimes you can run the pump motor but if you've got a small garment caught in there, or debris, lint, if you washed a big rug and you've got a lot of lint built up in the drain hole that goes to that pump, the water's not getting to it. If it were sensing that it's not draining and it all looks to be good as far as the mechanics of getting the water out of the machine, then I would look at the sensing cycle, which is the pressure switch, or the main control board itself. The switch, some have two switches, where one is a working and one is a fail safe. It just depends on your unit. You can look at the wiring diagram and get a better idea.

GARY

When you speak of pressure switches, is that basically a water level indicator?

JOHN SOWDEN

That's exactly what it is.

GARY

So that would be at the lower end of the tub?

JOHN SOWDEN

Where the switch is mounted, normally the switch can be mounted anywhere but there's a hose that senses that water level that's attached to the tub and normally that is at the bottom of the tub, yes. You can trace up the small clear tube to trace to where the pressure switch is.

GARY

Okay, I'll check that out, it's either that or the master control, what you call the brains of the machine.

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes, and you can always get a manual for it. On those machines with all the electronics and things of that nature, for a fifteen or twenty dollar investment, its money well spent versus time.

JOHN MCCULLOCH

And all he'd need to do is to get the model number off the machine and go to RepairClinic.com and order it.

JOHN SOWDEN

Right.

JOHN MCCULLOCH

You've got them right there.

JOHN SOWDEN

And basically that's more or less a Whirlpool front loader, so if we don't have it for that exact unit, we could come up with something similar.

Kitchen Aid Side by Side Refrigerator with No Lights and a Dead Display

JOHN MCCULLOCH

We'll go to Jim, in Bloomfield Hills, with a refrigerator that, well, I'll let him tell you here on the Appliance Repair Show. Go ahead, Jim

JIM
I've got a Kitchen Aid side by side refrigerator, and when I plug it in and I leave it plugged in for three or four minutes, when I open the doors back up to see, the lights have gone out and there's a little LED that gives you the temperature of the freezer and the fridge and it's all out and everything. It gives three quick beeps every three or four minutes. It cools just fine, but like I said the lights go out and it's doing the beeping sound.

JOHN SOWDEN

So you say, you plug it in for three or four minutes, and you leave it plugged in and it cools, everything seems to be working fine, its just the display itself is dead?

JIM

And all the lights are out, too.

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. I would, from what you're describing; I would suspect the small board that's in the display/control area. It sounds like the LED has failed in the board, but the main control board is still working properly or it wouldn't be cooling. So I would lean more towards that control assembly up there.

JIM

I've taken that control board out, and the fridge keeps working, the only thing that board controls is the LED display. I've taken that board out and it still does the same thing. The interior lights on the fridge still go out and it still does the beeping sound.

JOHN SOWDEN

Oh, really, even after you take it out? Well, then it could be in the main control board then, as far as that goes. Does it display any error codes, anything like that for you?

JIM

No, like I say, it just does that beeping sound every three or four minutes.

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. Hmm. Now, you say the beeping, is it coming from the display module that you took out?

JIM

It seems to be coming from behind the fridge.

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, that's where the main control board is located, so I would lean towards that, might be your issue there on that particular unit. That other display, obviously, if you take it out of the circuit, and you still have the same issues then it would be in the main control board, which unfortunately, when those go haywire they can do some pretty weird things. Again, normally if there's a fault code it might tell you where to look as far as a component causing this situation, but it could be just the board itself. Now you say you have unplugged it, plugged it back in and you get the same scenario.

JIM

Yes.

JOHN SOWDEN

Then I'd lean toward the mother board or the big brain as they say.

JIM

What should I look at paying for something like that?

JOHN SOWDEN

Normally, a main board, something like that, is ball park one hundred dollar range, if you put the model number complete as it reads off the unit itself into our website, we can give you an exact price for that. But that's normally a hundred bucks for a control board.

JIM

Where do I go to pick up one of those?

JOHN SOWDEN

Repairclinic.com.

JIM

Okay. Are there any stores that carry those things?

JOHN SOWDEN

Well our parts counter is open today from eight to six, but the rest is kind of hit and miss as to whether or not any of the other suppliers would have one on the shelf or not.

1967 Frigidaire Side by Side Refrigerator Does Not Freeze Ice Cream

JOHN MCCULLOCH

We'll go to Michael, in Romeo, on the Appliance Repair Show. Good morning, Michael.

JOHN SOWDEN

You've got an older Frigidaire refrigerator that's not doing too well, huh?

MICHAEL

Yeah, it's from 1967 we got it, it's a side by side, and what's happening is the refrigerator side seems to be fine, the freezer side, I put water in there for ice cubes and it seems to have frozen the ice cubes, but if I put ice cream in there it stays soft.

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, ice freezes at thirty-two degrees, and your ice cream, to make it really hard; you need it at five degrees. So if your freezer temperature isn't eight degrees or less, you're going to get soupy ice cream. It also depends on what kind of ice cream you have. But the first thing I'd do with a unit this old is ---

MICHAEL

Let me say first that I replaced the thermostat. I did that, and I thought that was it.

JOHN SOWDEN

It didn't' help?

MICHAEL

It didn't help.

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, the couple other things that could be causing this is one, the condenser is dirty; the coil on the back. A lot of times they used to have a bread box style condenser, it's a small black cube looking thing and the air's supposed to pass through it and it gets very impacted internally. You have to blow it out with some compressed air or vacuum it out really good. Looking at the surface of it, it might not look dirty, but it's probably plugged up inside. If that is not the case---

MICHAEL

That's like a black box?

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, it's a coil underneath the unit, on the air driven condensers, unless you've got a big radiator style condenser, that's mounted on the back, but yeah, you have to pull yours out. If you don't see the big black coil on the back, then it's stuffed up underneath.

MICHAEL

Yeah, it's a coil; it's a full length of the back.

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay, you have a static compressor then. Well, unfortunately one thing that can cause this situation of not doing too well in the freezer section, is as you pointed out this unit is thirty plus years old and it could be that the compressor itself has just lost it's ability to pump at the rate required to pull the temperature down in the freezer. Does it seem to run quite a bit?

MICHAEL

Yes.

JOHN SOWDEN

Yeah, that's a tell tale sign of an inefficient compressor, meaning its running, the valves are worn, and it just doesn't have the capacity to run the refrigerant through the system to pull those temperatures down, and you get a lot of long run times and still you can only get so much. Unfortunately, replacing the compressor is all you can do, and for a unit of that age, you probably don't want to do it.

MICHAEL

I should probably just get a new one.

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes.

MICHAEL

Well that's what the wife suggested, that we should probably just get a new one.

JOHN SOWDEN

I've heard that many times, the wife always wants a new appliance.

1985 GE Spacemaker Over the Range Microwave No Longer Working

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Well, you called the Appliance Repair Show to see if there was any way out of it. Let's go to Brian, in Redford, on the Appliance Repair Show. Brian, what's your problem?

BRIAN

I have a GE Spacemaker microwave above my stove. When I first purchased my house I had a very similar one, and I purchased a similar one used from a friend of mine, installed it. And it worked for probably six months or so, and all of a sudden, nothing. It just totally went on the fritz. I don't get any light, any display on the LED panel. I looked at the model number, and the manufacturer's date was 1985, which I was not aware of that.

JOHN SOWDEN

Right. That's an older unit.

BRIAN

But it was such a pain to put that thing in there. I was in contact with a place out on Middlebelt and Five Mile, and they said there's an internal fuse that could be replaced, but I just don't have a clue as to where you'd even start with this project.

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, microwaves, as I've stated before, they actually store energy: they have a high voltage capacitor in there, so even if you unplug it if you touch the wrong wires you're going to get a really nasty shock.

BRIAN

Right.

JOHN SOWDEN

Normally, it's recommended that you discharge the capacitor before you work on the microwave. So if you don't know what to touch and what not to touch, I would recommend calling somebody out for that. Now, most of the time the fuse is only a few bucks, and that's not an uncommon problem to have a fuse blow, especially after a pretty good time if the door switches stick and they have to close in sequence, it could cause the fuse to blow. So, it could be a bad door switch causing the microwave to fail. Now the one, there's still plenty of places out there that do have carry in service for microwaves and will charge a nominal fee to diagnose it. So if you don't want to spend the money to have the serviceman come to your home, depending on how fun it is to get off the wall, you could take it down and take it in somewhere and have them go through it and spend some money to see if it's worth it.

BRIAN

Right, I'm debating whether to just remove that whole unit and put something else in there. It was such a pain to install. I don't want to go through that again!

JOHN SOWDEN

If you're going to go through all the taking it down, putting it back up and it's a twenty year old microwave, again you can probably get a new one for a few hundred bucks that's a pretty decent unit. You get to a point of your time versus your money. It might be a good idea to switch it out now.

BRIAN

Exactly. Thank you so much for your time.

1999 GE Electric Dryer Taking Too Long To Dry

JOHN MCCULLOCH

Here's Joe, from Warren, with a GE dryer question on the Appliance Repair Show.

JOE

Yes, I have a GE dryer that I got back in '99; it has those little switches where it has automatic dry, where you just set it on the dryer and turn the dryer on and when the clothes are dried it will automatically shut itself off.

JOHN SOWDEN

Right.

JOE

Well, that switch stopped working so then I started using it takes up to seventy minutes to dry, and that worked for a while, and now it seems like you have to hit seventy minutes twice to get the clothes to dry.

JOHN SOWDEN

Is this gas or electric?

JOE

Electric.

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. Normally what happens is on the automatic cycle it senses the heat in the drum and/ or the humidity in the drum or both to advance the timer. If you have a plugged vent or something that is failing in the heating circuit, it is not sensing that properly and that fails to work. Then you went to doing the time dry, and it's going to run at its best capacity, which again it sounds like it's struggling with the airflow. If you feel any heat in the drum at all, the element is probably okay. I would lean, to start off with, the dryer vent going outside, make sure it's clear and as short as possible and preferably straight wall venting instead of flexible. And the blower housing could be packed, but from what you're describing, airflow is the problem here, and the more compacted it gets the worse it gets. If it's taking two hours to dry a load of clothes, what happens is the hot moist air has to go somewhere if it can't go out the vent, so it just stalls and circulates throughout the drum and you don't get the drying capacity.

JOE

So you're saying if I just re-adjust the vent and make it a little a shorter and make sure everything's cleaned out, then that should solve the problem?

JOHN SOWDEN

Generally, yes. And inspect the blower housing. One quick easy way to do it is disconnect the vent, do a load of clothes. I don't recommend you run your dryer in your home without the venting attached, but as a test case running one load isn't a big deal. Just disconnect the vent, throw the clothes in, if it starts working properly, you know it's in the venting.

JOE

Well, thank you, you might have just saved me a new dryer!

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, that's one thing I wanted to talk about is that people will have a problem with their dryer and it's over time gotten to be a problem, so they say, "I'm just going to replace it." So they bring home a brand new dryer and then hook it up to the old vent that's still plugged up, and then you have a serviceman come out for the brand new dryer and you're unhappy because your new dryer is broken just like your old one, and he tells you it's the venting, and then you're new manufacturer of whatever appliance you're going to buy, and rightfully so, shouldn't pay for that service call because they can't control what it's hooked up to. So I'd always start with the venting. You've got to get that air out of the machine in order for it to work properly.

JOE

All right, I'll check that out and I'll call you back if I have any problems.

Maytag Refrigerator Leaking Water from the Ice Maker

JOHN MCCULLOCH

We're going to go with Barbara, in Farmington Hills, who has a Maytag refrigerator.

BARBARA

Hello. I was sitting here listening to your program, got up and walked over to the refrigerator and found a puddle, which I think must have been there for a while because there's carpet on the floor and it's pretty well soaked. I turned the, oh, this is....

JOHN SOWDEN

Where is the water coming from, ma'am, is it the refrigerator?

BARBARA

It's the icemaker. It's coming from the icemaker. I've turned the freezer off and that doesn't really stop it. But I've also lifted the lever on the icemaker, and that does stop the drip eventually.

JOHN SOWDEN

So the drip is coming from inside or externally?

BARBARA

It's coming from inside the icemaker because the drip of water is coming from the bottom of the big icemaker container.

JOHN SOWDEN

Oh, so it's actually filling up the ice bin and it's dripping?

BARBARA

Apparently so.

JOHN SOWDEN

Does it seem to be overflowing the icemaker itself? Can you see where it's dripping from the icemaker?

BARBARA

No, the ice level is way down! I think I've got practically the whole icemaker's worth of water on the floor!

JOHN SOWDEN

I see. And you lifted it up and it quit?

BARBARA

I lifted that lever up, yes, and it quit.

JOHN SOWDEN

Okay. Yeah, it sounds like you have a fill problem with the icemaker, and that's normally due to either the water valve itself has failed and it's not shutting off properly and allowing water to drip through, or it's restricted and you're getting a small amount of water which jams up the icemaker and causes water to leak. So the one thing you want to do is probably turn the water off going to the icemaker, just to make sure you don't continue with this until you can have somebody come out and look at it for you. But from what you're describing I would suspect you either have a plugged water line going to the icemaker, which causes low pressure in the water valve not to operate properly, or the water valve itself has failed and it's causing the water to bleed by and drip.

BARBARA

That water valve would be in the basement somewhere under the refrigerator?

JOHN SOWDEN

Well, the water valve for the refrigerator is normally mounted in the back of the refrigerator itself. Where the water shutoff is in your home, I have no idea.

JOHN MCCULLOCH

She wouldn't need to shut the water off in the home!

JOHN SOWDEN

Not for the whole house, but if there's a shutoff valve readily available for the whole icemaker, I'd recommend turning that off. If the valve sticks open, mechanically it doesn't matter electrically what you do to that. If you turn off the icemaker, lift up the arm, its still going to drip water. If it continues on that way, and most of them are in the basement, you'll see where the water tubing goes down, it's normally mounted to one of the household fixtures, it's a small T-valve.

BARBARA

Now I'm lifting the lever since I'm able sort of to stop it, so I leave the freezer control turned on?

JOHN SOWDEN

Yes, you don't want to loose your food. But again, you're disabling it electrically by lifting the arm up, you're turning the icemaker off, but if the water valve is just sticking open at times, it doesn't matter if there's power or not, it's going to run. I've seen it where you open the freezer door and it's frozen literally halfway up the entire length of the freezer, so I want to keep it from just a small drip on the wet carpet to a real mess.

BARBARA

Thank you very much. I think you're correct; I'm going to have to have help with this.

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